Originally Posted by Wease

I started out with the kit set-up since we run on such high traction, but made the following changes:

1. Took the transmission plate chassis spacer out from under the rear transmission - little to no difference. I still have this plate removed.

2. Lengthened the rear camber link - little to no different.

3. Shortest rear camber link possible - while the rear of the car was still loose, it was much more controllable with the shortest link.

4. Removed all the optional screws from the rear of the chassis - little to no different. Left all the screws out

5. Loosened the center slipper to the max distance recommend at about 6mm. This made the rear end slightly less loose, but still too loose.

6. Went to only .5mm of anti squat and max rear toe - helped a little, but nothing dramatic. I'm still running .5mm of anti squat and max toe.

7. Went down from 10K in the front diff to 7k - little to no difference. Still running 7K in the front.

7. Went up in the rear diff from 5k to 7k - biggest improvement so far. The rear is better, but still not as planted as my 2013 car was on this same track with the same tires. Got desperate and went from 7k in the rear to 10K just to see what would happen - but I actually didn't notice any more change.

8. Went to 3 dot front spring and sway bar which is stiffer than stock - little to no difference.

I'm still running the kit set-up for shock pistons and oils.

The rear is o.k. on long progressive turns, but in quick 180 degree turns or chicanes where I'm trying to make quick direction changes, or trying to pitch the car in to the turn - the rear is just too loose. Or should I say, the front is just stuck to the track and the rear wants to skip about 45 degrees in one direction or the other. It won't spin out completely, but it loses enough traction to point the front end in the wrong place.