Originally Posted by
MOmo
For folks still running the TC4 and who are competitive, Are you still using the TUB chassis or have you switched to the Diggity chassis? AE Chassis?
What all conversions our there that are still available are worth exploring?
-Diggity
-AE
-ExoTeck
-Penguin
-Etc?
I'm seriously looking hard at that option and would really like to make a competitive race car from my TC4. I just hate to pour a bunch of $$ into it.
(But since I have spares between it and my TC3, I might as well)
-I happen to have the ASC 1way Part #: 1728, will this give me any advantage in VTA?
-Are people favoring a Spool in the F or R or utilizing diffs?
-presume the AE FT Shocks from my TC3 would be the best option?
-Are there different arm versions like there were for the TC3. V2 vs V1 or are the V2 the new standard?
-is anyone running a Shorty? is a Std length pack best?
-For those with competitive TC4s, is there a list of "Must Haves" or "Mods" that will make this car MORE competitive.
I really am excited to get my car running again. I've tried looking now and then for a used Diggity roller, but they seem few and far between. Has anyone run the Diggity vs the AE version side by side? are there any advantages either way?
MOmo
If you can find one, the BMI chassis conversion is the best way to go. BMI fixed most of the flaws in the car and there is a night and day difference between the tub and BMI. The FT AE chassis used exactly the same layout and positioning as the tub chassis but the left/right flex will be more equal, the tub messes up the left/right flex alot due to the step on the motor side of the chassis.
After the BMI chassis a slipper spool in the front, 4' castor blocks, VCS2 upgrade shocks with losi pistons or some Tamiya TRF's and a good matched spring kit (not AE kit springs) and your good to go. IRS diff's and driveshafts are nice but not essential, it will make the car lighter sure but weight isn't everything, balance is more important. The car is really heavy in the ass so move the wishbones to the rear to get the weight forward and space the motor forward with a 3mm+ spacer plate.