Lowing the entire rear hinge pin will lower the roll center. It will roll a little more just like raising the link on the tower, but it's effects are more pronounced than doing the same thing on the tower (i.e. lowering rear hinge pin 1mm will have a greater effect than raising the link on the tower the same amount). In most conditions, lowering the hinge pin and running the link lower on the tower to get a similar amount of roll will produce more rear traction than a medium height hinge pin and parallel links would. Generally, on looser tracks you would want the rear hinge pin lower, and vise versa on high bite tracks.

Lowering the entire front hinge pin will make the front end more aggressive and will transfer slightly less weight under breaking. The same role center rules apply from the rear, but there are more variables with raising the front because of the chassis kickup and steering system. Mounting the front hinge pins high, and then using less kickup will make the steering less aggressive while not transferring excessive weight to the front under breaking. I don't have any track specific rules for this because it mostly depends on how your front end feels.

Moving the hinge pins inwards is more complicated because hinge pin width and arm length go hand and hand, so when you only narrow the hinge pin width, it will decrease the track width as well. Using wider hexes to compensate for the width makes it even more complex because the hexes change hub offset among other things. That being said, narrower hinge pin holders and longer arms will give the car a more slow reacting stable feel. Mugen, for example, went from a narrow hinge pin holder and long rear arm with the 6 to a wide hinge pin holder and shorter rear arm with the 7, which makes the rear end more aggressive. JQ did the opposite with both the front and rear ends on the WE.