Anyone know how to resolve a RC10L2 from spinning out on power? Its not after immediate power input but it just gets to a point where the car can not support the power and spins out. 10.5 boosted on asphalt. Im used to a car that feels glued to the track and this just feels very floaty and sketchy on power. I have turned the speedo punch down to 80% and added Neg expo on the throttle curve of the radio.
.20 front spring
Jaco Purple front and White rear. Half the front sauced and full rear.
Ride height is 5mm forward and back.
Silver Center Spring w/ 30wt oil.
I ran a RC10L2 back in the early 2000's with 19t motors and never had an issue. I'm not sure what the problem is. Tweak is spot on as well. Battery position was tried forward and back. Back was better. I never really liked the "natural rubbers" on asphalt so I may try Green. I used to have success with that as a rear tire. But its firmer and seems to be opposite of what people are running with Lipo batteries. The local club runs 1s 10.5 boosted so I have two packs strapped in and only plug in one at a time.
Thanks for any input,
Roger
Camarillo I assume?
As mentioned above, tire compounds have changed - what we used to call Green back in the day is no longer what you'd expect. I assume other compounds have changed as well so you'll have to figure those out.
Is this a dampner disk car and not one that has the tri-shock conversion?
If it is disk, no inserts around the post or anything else to slow that upper action?
There was one thing I always did for Camarillo - big tires. Meaning really large diameter ones, 2.40"ish even. The ability to get some foam flex there really helped as I assume it suddenly hasn't gone from the lowest grip track we used to run on in the area to higher.
Also as mentioned above, run the front higher than the rear.
Take off your lower pod plate and make sure it isn't bent/tweaked in anyway.
Now racing mod OffRoad buggy as my primary form of RC, this is something I hear alot in that class from other people trying to dial in for a limited grip situation:
Its not after immediate power input but it just gets to a point where the car can not support the power and spins out.
I've learned that it happens alot when you double up on reducing speedo punch and then adding negative expo. It creates a "catch point" where the ESC goes from nothing happening to instant-on and a car that is otherwise accelerating fine suddenly spins. I would try the car with expo linear and dial it in off the punch alone. As well, since you are running boosted, make sure you have no delay on the turbo/boost settings.
I only wish I had the problem of trying to dial-in a Pro10 car these days...
