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Old 06-27-2014, 01:25 AM
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snuvet75
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
1. The Alu bell wears extremely quickly if your clutch isn't setup perfectly. If you have a lot of slip then you will ruin the Alu bell in a few seconds. Your friend is partially right in that the Alu bell is quite sensitive to needing accurate clutch setup. If your not 100% happy with clutch setup then stick to the steel bells for now. The wear inside your current bell is not good and contributing to the issue you are having with bogging. Change it for a steel bell before continuing.

2. What end float and end play are you running? Make sure it's 0.6mm and 0.1mm. Below 0.6 will cause bogging. It's difficult to say how many turns in to set the adj nut because the setting various clutch to clutch engine to engine but start with 10mm down from the end of the crankshaft and then tune it from there.

I doubt your broken conrod is totally attributable to a bogging clutch however you will see higher engine temps if the clutch is either bogging or slipping. My advice is to recheck your engine settings as well before continuing on a new engine as it's likely the piston/sleeve/head/main bearing is toast when the rod breaks...
Dan,
I've been recently using 0.5-0.6mm clutch gap... So that's the problem I guess? I've been told to use 0.5mm though. What the heck?!
The preload turns shouldn't matter that much at this point. I've tried different turns anyways.
The engine temp was 240-290F but I really didn't care much about it.
I'm currently using STEEL bell. The aluminum bell I mentioned is in my bag. So you're saying the thread inside the bell shouldn't be there, right? Is it supposed to be smooth on surface just like steel bell?
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