Originally Posted by
skyball
Hi Rick, thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences. I read your comment on Friday night while I was at the ETS race in Austria.
Before that I had already copied the geometry parts of your setup (track width, wheelbase, camber link length...) but left the rollcenter settings somewhere about the "standard values". While I felt very encouraged to try the higher rollcenter, I just didn't dare making such a change during the qualifying runs. Especially since I was already very happy with the cars steering and corner speed and more struggling not to "kiss the borders" too often while maintaining speed and a close raceline.
On my next practice or race I will surely try the "high rollcenter" thing.
BTW, at the race I had a chance to meet Juho Levanen, who turned out to be super nice.
I also had a little talk with Toni Rheinard, who strongly recommended to visit the ETS race in Trencin, Slovakia on July 4th to 6th. It's held at the - obviously fantastic - XRAY facility (HUDY Arena), which not only includes a very interesting XRAY factory tour but also features an indoor and an outdoor track so racing doesn't depend on the wheather. That said, the wheather should generally be just fine at that time of the year in Slovakia. So if you're interested in attending an ETS race this year, you might want to check your schedule at "Independence Day"
.
Christian
I have also been told that this is THE race to attend. If the timing is favorable, I will try to attend.
Originally Posted by
Carnage9270
Hey Mr. Rick Howart,
Have a question about your newest setup you have posted. It looks like the difference between your GCR #7 and the GCR#8 is +.2mm RH in the rear, Anti-Roll Bars completely different and your Cam Position is down low.
Curious what you were trying to compensate for there?
I run a lot of parking lot racing and noticed you said in the past to drop the arm mounts to the chassis and the inner camber links to 1mm for low grip tracks, I'm assuming that still goes? The tracks can be a little bumpy as well.
The anti-roll bars are the "old style" TC5 one-pieces bar type. I have had some problems with the new style wires bending so I thought I would go back to the older style which I have always liked. The biggest problem is that AE does not make a very good selection of this type. But as an alternative you can use Yokomo bars which offer a wide variety of sizes.
The lower diffs make the car easier to drive. The track this time was lower grip so I thought that this helped. The very high front diff gives the car a lot of on-power steering but it can also be twitchy which is what I was trying to eliminate. The ride high was to try to free up the rear end a little to get more rotation.
You can lower the suspension mounts and camber links to increase grip. But I have found that the car is not as good on the bumps this way.
Originally Posted by
RC.Jon22
Question for you guys - so I'm trying to mess around with setups, and I'm trying out Rick Hohwart's setup, but I noticed that the kit uses a 0.5mm shim under the inner/outer arm mounts. Rick's setup calls for 3mm shims on both the inner and outer arm mounts. I saw the new Associated arm mount shims (part # 31629 and 31630) but they are just flat little graphite pieces that come in 1mm and 0.5mm sizes. Should I just stack these up to get to 3mm or just use regular blue shims? I was just curious because I feel like the graphite AE ones might fall out over time. Any feedback would be great.
You can stack the graphite shims and if your screws are tight, they won't fall out. These are way easier to deal with than washers so I highly recommend them regardless of how many you use.
Originally Posted by
thecaptain
So when ricks set up called for 3mm of shims did it say on the mount? Because thats a crazy amount or rc shims on the bottom. And you would probably need a longer screw
Yes 3mm under the mount.