Originally Posted by
speed6
The gasket will have to replaced once opened because of the liquid gasket right, can't i try use high temp grease?
I fasten evenly and i also do a crosswise pattern and also check for any oil inside the holes.
One last thing my car really suffered this weekend, rear was loosing to much grip going off power into a turn especially in the sweeper, tried lowering the rear shocks, increase rear town in, increased rear camber, harder front sway bars, 1 step harder springs up front (track had extremely low grip), Xray and Mugen also suffered but not as much as i did. i ran big bore but i always suspected that the Capricorn car suffers to much on low grip surfaces, lets also say the good things as on high grip the car is extremely nice to drive but i get pissed when i see xray drivers leave the same setup and car is still a bit better than mine after all the adjustment i did. Kindly enlighten me
No, you can just open it and close it again without having to reapply the liquid sealant. It sticks to the O-ring, basically adding material so the O-ring fills up all the gaps between the two halves.
Regarding the setup, if you change all those things and the car's handling doesn't change a lot there is either something wrong mechanically or the base setup simply isn't good.
Personally for very low grip I think the normal shocks are better, 550cst with 3 holes and red springs should always be a good base.
For the big bore shocks I run 450cst with 3x1.0 hole pistons, and 3.4 springs all around. This also works really well, car creates a good amount of grip.
The high # of holes together with thick oil only works with additive or high traction.
Originally Posted by
John.C
I ran my C02 Black Edition (original 2013 version) for the first time this past weekend. Overall, the car performed well and held up great. I managed to Q6 in the amain and had good pace throughout the day. In Q3 and the main I struggled with my new motor and couldn't get the results that I was hoping for. I finished the main but had numerous flameouts which ended any chance of a good finish.
I made the following observations while working on my car.
1) All 4 pivot balls were bent after minor contact with the barrier. We race on a parking lot with a wood board/PVC style barrier system. I'll admit that this system is tough on cars but I really hope that the titanium pivot balls hold up better than the stock steel pivot balls.
2) Very early into the day the shocks developed air bubbles and required a rebuild. I'll need to address this quickly or I'm looking at rebuilding these shocks (version 1 Big Bores) after every run. The problem could be in the bottom end, a combination of using different o-rings and adding spacers to better seal that area may work. Any input and/or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking forward to my next outing with this car. Racing nitro on-road is intoxicating, its much more exciting than electric touring.
Like everything else on the car, the pivotballs are designed to be as light as possible. This also makes them a bit more vulnerable to big crashes.
If you want to upgrade to stronger pivotballs I would suggest getting the Xray NT1 ones. These are the strongest you can get, the Capricorn Ti ones are also good but if you bent one of those it's pricey.
New shocks will always develop air within their first run, everything needs to settle, and there might be still some air trapped because of the new build.
I bleed my shocks before every practice day because it's part of my setup routine but most of the time either none has air in it or and sometimes only one of the rear shocks a little bit. During the day I never have to rebuild them.