Good point about the inner crush spacers for the bearings. The older TC3's didn't come with those. They are AE part #3965. Here is a link on Tower (
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSW19).
If you don't have them on your car (they install between the bearings in the rear hub & steering knuckle), it is easy to over-tighten the wheel onto the car. You might also check to see if there is a small shim (looks like a washer) between the hub/knuckle and the axle roll pin. That small shim helps to keep the wheel hex from rubbing against the hub/knuckle, which can cause binding.
You didn't mention what speed control you are using. Some speed controls have adjustments that will help the car from a dead stop.
If your car is bogging down in the corners, you may need to adjust how much the car is rolling. Too much roll will make the weight transfer side to side instead of keeping the car moving forward. Without a complete setup or seeing your car in action, it is hard to suggest one exact thing. However, here are a few ideas to help the rear rotate better.
- If you aren't loose, try running 2 degrees of rear toe.
- Try installing a rear sway bar to help keep the rear flatter through the corners.
- Try shorter camber links in the rear.
- Decrease droop
Above all, make sure the car is mechanically sound (which it sounds like you do).
A few more things...
- Please let us know the size/lap times at the track you race.
- Are you being beaten by a few good racers, or does everyone seem to be faster?