Originally Posted by
NEED-MORE-SPEED
* Fully compress the shaft into the shock body (with the shock end on as Rosko mentioned) and hold the shaft fully compressed into the shock body. At this point you can loosen the bleeder screw on the shock cap until the remaining oil bleeds out. Once all remaining oil has escaped replace and fully tighten the bleeder screw back into the shock cap then release shock shaft. This will achieve very little rebound if any at all.
Wrong, bleed screw is only used when making a emulsion type shock. Excess oil has to be bled under the shock cap.
Originally Posted by
loomumbaa
thanks for all your helping advises guys.
My Problem is that there is no oil bleeding out of the bleeding hole. Help me if I`getting something wrong but when I think about it, I start to wonder how there ever can get oil out of these holes when the bladder is installed. Would excess oil pass the bladder?
I got it work with about ~20% rebound, but now when fully extend the shaft it`s soaking back into the shock body about ~20%, too.
Isn`t this a sign for not enough oil in the shock, other hand rebound for too much oil?
These shocks are fkn with me.......
No you are correct. If you can get all 4 shocks equal I wouldn't worry too much about the "suck back" unless its strong enough to effect the strength of the spring.
Do a normal bleed procedure, but when you push the shock rod up as you bleed them, try it with the spring holder in place on the bottom (no spring, just the locator) as your shocks will never go farther than that. This should keep the top of the piston from effecting the bladder as you do the bleed.
Originally Posted by
zaraz
put some tamiya shocks on, I built everything with trf dampers, and it made the car handle quite well, and you can get 0 rebound out of them, I tried building a set of durango dampers but found them to garbage
Ya ya ya, you even told the Awesomatic guys they should be using the TRF shocks.
