Originally Posted by
JayBee
I like this method as well.
. My only question would be how much actual up travel does each increment produce relative to a given amount of ride height?
I agree, that the measurement method seems simple and accurate.
To calculate the up travel you need to know not only the ride height, but also the wheel diameter. With mounted wheels the point of measurement (top of axle) would be
wheeldiameter / 2 + axlediameter / 2 above ground.
I'll call that "axleheight". The measured droop as described in post
785 will be called "new droop" here.
So the calculated up travel would be axleheight - ride height - new droop.
The only problem with that calculation is, that it does not take into account that the tire will be flatter when the car is just sitting there (for example when checking ride height) than while driving. On the other hand this will affect ride height just the same.
So it should probably be better to also measure the "axleheight" with a caliper on top of the axle (only with mounted wheels) than to use some theoretical values given by the tire manufacturer. As long as you don't have extensive camber settings this should be accurate enough.
Also, this is a very good point:
Originally Posted by
Dan Hamann
I usually do it with shocks off, and recheck with shocks on. Lets me know if I need to work on shock lengths or finding bind in the car.
When your shock length limits the amount of uptravel and not your droop screw, that's very probably not what you want and you should check both settings.
Christian