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Old 02-20-2014, 11:51 AM
  #997  
InspGadgt
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,191
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Originally Posted by TryHard
and have to re-mount the servo every time you do ride height? no thanks..

What I think we can all agree on though, is there are a number of ways to skin a cat. They all have their advantages and disadvantages, but for me, the technique I have ended up with, is the way I feel is best for me. Simple really.
I don't remount my servo...it is glued to the chassis with shoe goo and I just use some thin double stick tape on the sides for support. I just peel the mounts off and move them up or down with the plate. To me it is much easier than fussing with the bell crank height every time I want to change ride height. How often do we change ride height anyway? Once we get it set we pretty much don't touch it again unless we switch brands of tires.

Originally Posted by liljohn1064
I know you mentioned that before, but I forgot you had done it that way. How does that impact the rear upper arm ball stud? Like a caster block on a pan car with arms angled down from back to front?
Everything moves together when you move the plate with the servo mounts so you don't have to change a thing on the upper arms. If you change the ride height using the arms you then would need to re-shim the upper arms as well since only the front upper arm mount moves with the arms.

For me moving the plate with servo mounts is a much more logical system since the whole suspension moves together. What SP should have done was tie the rear upper arm mount to the plate instead of the servo mount...then ride height adjustments would be very straight forward.
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