Originally Posted by JFuel11

I know this has been answered but I thought I would put my 2 cents worth in.

Drag Brake - This is the amount of brake that is always applied when you are off throttle. This was designed initially to mimic the drag force of a brushed motor. We have found it to be a tuning aid of some sorts to help a car naturally slow down into and at the apex of a turn. I have found on some track the more drag brake I run the faster times I could turn.

I have also found that it can be a bit of a crutch as well. I have since learned to manage my brakes with my finger more as drag brake is static and you can't change it dynamically during a race if you have too much or not enough, so my suggestion is to not rely on it too much and learn to training your driving finger over time to do the majority of your braking.

Drag brake also comes at a cost of motor temps. The more you run the more it works your motor and esc during a run, increasing temps over time.

Initial Brake - This setting is the amount of brake that is applied once you you move the trigger to the brake position. Initial Brake and Drag brake need to work together. You don't want a high drag brake setting and then a low initial brake as it will make the car feel funny under braking as if the brakes fade for a moment during initial braking.

I have found the smoothest setup for me to always set initial brake to be = to drag brake. This setting makes everything more dynamic. If you change your drag brake you initial braking will keep the car slowing down in a linear fashion. I almost never run more or less initial brake and keep it = to drag brake.

I personally have found 5 to 10% drag brake in most off road racing is the most I run. If you are running heavier load applications like 4wd buggy and 4wd SCT you will find drag brake will add additional heat to the motor more quickly.

I hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions.

Good luck and happy racing!