Tekno Suggestion Box:

1) I understand already having the manuals printed prior to making a few changes, but would it be possible to update the manual on your website for download?

2) Would it be possible to make the following option part? : A set of side guards (mudguards) that are wide as a typical truggy body and has an extended battery tray with inserts. The inserts would be for use of smaller batteries. Sounds like a seller to me.

3) TKR1443 Droop screws. It would be nice if the up-facing end had a hex socket for easy adjustment from the top. [Update: Oops, I didn't realize that the droop screws would be perfectly accessible from the bottom. So never mind]
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The build so far:

Everything, for the most part is going together smoothly, but here are a few notes.

1) Buy A 4mm Reamer. Not everyone will have one of these in their tool box. They are "needed" for the the a-arms, as the inner pins fit snugly. Tekno suggest reaming them out. I didn't know I needed a reamer, so I chose skip that step. After cycling the arms for few minutes. The rear arms moved fairly easily under there own weight (no hub/cva assembly installed at this point).

2) Inner Diff Shims Are Different. Tekno uses Facebook more than their own website for news and updated information. This was mentioned there. The shims are not the same as indicated in the manual. The ID of the shims are also over-sized (not sure why), but the diff builds smoothly.....at least in my case.

3) Diff Gasket Tip. The gasket fits really snug in the ring gear and the holes in the gasket are precisely the size of the holes in the ring gear. So, install the gasket in the ring gear at an angle and get the first hole aligned perfectly before working the rest of the gasket in. I personally smeared a lil' bit of black grease on both sides of the gasket first. Once the gasket is fully seated, you can not turn it within the ring gear.

4) Different Screws For The Swaybars. The screw to mount the sway bar linkage to the arms is called out as 14mm long. They are actually 20mm.

5) Outer Diff Shims Tip. [I'll try to post a pic of this later] I found it to be quite a feat of magic to get the diff in the housings with one shim on each side. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. It's very easy to buckle/bend one or miss getting it in the housing. What worked great for me was to cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip of each diff housing halve (8 total for front diff, 8 total for rear diff). This allowed me a bit of alignment assistance to get the diff installed with damaging the shims.

6) Hub CVA Installation. I like to eliminate axial movement along the hing pin. As instructed, there's still a bit (less than 1mm) of axial play, which is typical of most kits I come across. [BTW, the nailed it on the inner hinge.] I added .5mm thick shim to the stack of spacers used on the outer pin.

7) Body Protection. The bodies have been getting quite a bit of damage about the front shock towers. After the paint has fully cured on your body, reinforce these areas. Smear some Amazing Goop on an press a square of drywall tape in. Add more goop, more tape, more goop, more tape, and finish with more goop. Work fast, as this stuff starts to thicken quickly. Let it cure at least 24hrs before use. Disclaimer: I haven't done this, nor installed the body, so do not know if there is room for 3 layers.


This is as far as I've gotten in the build so far. I'll update this post as I go, then move it to another thread.