Originally Posted by Dino_D

Try single tapered machined piston from durango using the 4x1.0mm and redrill the holes to 1.2mm x 4 holes 27wt losi. Dark Green Front Rear, the same, single tapered 4x1.0mm but drill 2x 1.5mm and 2x 1.1mm and 25wt losi. Light Blue Rear. The car will have enough pack for the big jumps, but also good on the rough stuff. RM4 transmission, run between 1.5 to 3 antisquat. Middle hole on lower arm, middle on tower. Front outer hole on arm, middle on tower. No shims for rear inner camber link. 2mm shims on the front inner camber link. Car should be easy to drive. Adjust front trailing or front upper link if you need more steering. Its always easier to add steering once your car is stable.

Our local track is med bite dirt/clay and some spots have low grip. Some people use mini pins while others use bar codes. I have tried them both, its personal preference. One thing though. Use closed cell on the rear tire with the setup, aka or proline soft. Its more consistent. Open cell (standard white foams) just don't have the consistency.

Oh forget to mention. I run shorty pack mounted forward. You can try mounting it mid if you want more rotation. I don't place my battery to the rear. The more rear you place the battery, sure you got more grip, but you get more rotation, which can be bad if traction is low. Mounting it up front is way more consistent, with the traction you get with RM4. Full pack will definitely give you more grip cause of the weight. But you can add 7oz automotive weight to each rear hub using servo tape which will yield way more grip than a full sized pack in your car. It has to do with sprung and unsprung weight. Its better on the hubs than on the chassis.