Originally Posted by Razathorn

I like to think of roll center as living inside springs, ride height, camber gain, and to some degree pistons / oil (+/- a washer for fine tuning a dramatic change in damping).

Camber gain is something that most people should never be changing unless they're really wanting to change how their cars work. The "team" settings are almost always right, and anything more than a notch different than those is almost always totally wrong, especially in the rear. In the front, caster blocks play a much larger part in camber than the camber rod length so you can get away with more in the front in terms of changing the lengths of links. Having said that, I have played with all of them, but its usually the last thing I do after determining that all other changes just aren't doing it and I want to go fishing, because it just totally changes how the car works.

Stage Settings
I like to think of camber gain (i.e. link length primarily, but sometimes height changes it too, but to much less of a degree), especially in the rear, as one of the "stage" settings that you don't change often or that much. Other settings in this area are wheel base, and shock down travel. These settings all together define the "stage" that the suspension performs on. Much like performers on stage, the suspension cannot go past these "hard stops". At these hard stops, such as fully chassis rolled, the amount of camber gain on the outside wheel and how far the car can roll is fixed. On this stage, things such as dampers, springs, weight placement, ride height, and roll centers determine how quick you move around the stage and get to the edges. Your job tuning the suspension should be to get your performers to dance correctly on that stage. If, and only if, the type of performance you need to do changes, should you be changing the stage.

If you need to change the stage, then think about camber gain.

That's how I like to think of it.

Wayne