I'll try and scramble to finish the job I'm working on and try to make some illustrations to show you how to do it properly. Hang tight, but in the meantime, grab some spare wire and practice stripping 1/16" off the insulation and tinning the exposed lead.

You can leave your iron sitting on it's own and hold the wire onto the tip and REMEMBER to place the solder on top to apply pressure on the wire until it begins to absorb the solder. Once the top os tinned, turn the wire over quickly and tin the underside LIGHTLY.

If you find it's not melting, slide the solder on the side, IN BETWEEN THE WIRE AND THE TIP and work it towards the front as that ALWAYS gets the tinning going. Once it's starts absorbing move quickly up top and tin as I pointed out above.

YOU DON'T WANT OR NEED MUCH!!! Just enough so the lead is coated.


Then move onto the motor leads. It seems you have too much on their already so I suggest you apply heat to liquify it and then blow the existing solder off the leads. Blow hard so it's as bare as possible. Then apply heat to the lead and slip a bit of solder on to the lead.

Most people apply the solder onto the iron tip which is incorrect so be sure to slide it onto the contact point. Once you see a SMALL bead, lift the iron off and grab a tinned wire and place it one the tip of the iron and place it back onto the motor lead and then slide out the iron to join them. If you get lucky and it turns out perfect, great! If not, simply apply a bit of pressure with the iron to liquify everything up and position it in the ideal angle (in your case a slight forward angle and the end of the wire pointing down) and remove the iron and let cool.

Try and LMK how it works out. If anything I can FaceTime with you tonight to show you exactly how to do it. No biggie. I have a burnt out P.O.S. Novak motor I can use to demonstrate for you.