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Old 10-23-2013, 04:02 PM
  #5958  
snuvet75
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone
The carbon fiber steering brace will not eliminate the loose feeling of the rack. That part was designed to stabalize the two pivot points. The Exotec chassis is a very flexible unit but drilled for the pre-eryx cars, so the split blocks cannot be used. I have run this chassis in CTA/VTA and it works quite well.

There are only two fixes for the loose steering rack because of the parts that make up the rack. The issue is that you have bearings floating in aluminum arms and unless you either glue the bearings into the arms (not advised) or do the plastic bag trick, you'll never get the loose out. Its like running rear uprights, there is a reason that the bearing goes into a plastic adapter, because if it didn't the bearing would have too much float and feel really loose.



The reason it doesn't get fixed is beacause its not broken. I don't know how to state this any simpler......the system was not designed to use a servo saver.......if you are/do, you'll have to come up with your own fix to make it work. Lots of us use a servo saver, and the ways to run it have been posted several times. You had to trim down one side of the saver to get more throw but if you're trying to get lock to lock throw you are already well past the effecient throw degrees of the steering and are now creating tire scrub or slowing the car down more than you have to in the corners.

Also if the button head screw is touching the graphite plate threw the sweep of the servo, make sure you haven't dropped the servo too low, the screws should be pretty much centered in the servo ear holes, giving you about 1mm of clearance between the chassis and the bottom of the servo. I may misunderstand the last part of your post about the screw issue, if the above is not what you're referring to.
1. I don't throw servo out of efficient range Johnny. Like yourself said, the saver still needs to be trimmed down.
2. Fair to say that it doesn't get fixed because it's not broken. Can't argue with that but still it could've been better. They know lots of us use saver and that they should've taken it into consideration. Shouldn't they? Especially with years of serpent's technology and Salven's brilliant brain.
3. You got me wrong on the screw on servo mount and I need to correct myself. Sorry. Anyway, when I built the car by the manual, the bolt head that connects the servo horn and the connecting turnbuckle to steering rack was rubbing against the floating servo mount as it moved. So I ended up putting a small shim between the horn and servo in order to widen the gap. Later, I installed servo saver and it became irrelevant.
4. Slop in the steering rack: I don't understand what "the plastic adapter" you were referring to. I tried plastic bag trick and it was an absolute failure and I ended up breaking a few parts when it got loose a few times. So I glued the bearing to the rack. And I'm happy. Well if you say you don't recommend it, I don't know what to say but well it worked for me Why is it not recommended anyway?? I know it can be a delicate procedure but any other reason?
5. I was looking into Exotek chassis and it's a shame it can't be used in Eryx. It looks pretty decent. Have you also used 2mm chassis? Running Eryx mostly on outdoor asphalt track, I was thinking of getting it.

Thank you for your advice Johnny
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