Great pics Tom. Here's my thoughts...
I think a better servo would suite you better. Even a Futaba 9650 second hand would work well.
I wouldn't worry about forward mounting the servo. I find the angled servo in the std position easiest to drive. Plus it will make getting your ackerman and linkage angles simpler. If you do keep the servo and the location you have I would do like other have suggested and move it forward and move the balls to the middle holes instead of the top. I would also move the balls on the steering knuckles to the middle hole and raise them up maybe 2-4 mm so that the ends are higher at the knuckle than they are at the servo saver. It looks now like the kimbrough 114 servo saver you're using might be rubbing on the chassis which can make things hairy. The second way you show the servo mounted looks ok; I might only raise the balls to the middle holes in the servo saver with that orientation.
Check to see that your shock isn't rubbing the battery near the front as the pod articulates. It looks close.
I would think a sensored system might be a little more drivable. Lots of sensorless systems jump aggressively from off-throttle to on-throttle positions.
I don't have any experience with 10th pan outdoors, but my 12th on asphalt usually feels more stable in the rear with softer side springs. You might consider trying a white or blue side spring and a white or blue center spring with AE or Losi 30 wt oil. I'd probably start with a .50 spring up front, or if you wanna use the longer 10th scale kingpins, a white side spring. I would also consider trying the long front arms as well. If you cut the center out of the H brace it will fit the wide front end and you can both raise the upper arm, and mount the long arms, both of which will reduce camber gain and I would think give the car less aggressive and more predictable steering.
I hope I'm not stepping on any toes with all of the ideas; just hoping to be helpful.
AWD