Originally Posted by
bertrandsv87
Ball diffs only disintegrate when you forget to goop the main bolt and nut properly... You need to let the blue loctite dry on them a bit before you insert the bolt through the diff outdrives, and after you tighten the diff all the way, you need to again add loctite to the protuding bolt threads and let that dry too... When it's all dry, you can set the diff a little tighter than where you would want it at first and run it a bit until the balls are well seated in the ring grooves, and then you tune the diff to the track... If you never use this method to loctite the diff bolt, you will always have issues... The only thing that will break the diff after gooping it like that is if you have a super powerful motor (2.5t boosted) that will pop the diff bolt's head, but no diffing out.....
Or... Fill gear diff, run it. And know that you will have absolute consistency during runs between refills (9 months on one of mine)
Originally Posted by
pierre johnson
...in tc open mod the ball diff in the rear was very effective when set properly and the spool up front was solid and will most likely keep this combo for the next Roar tc mod race in September. .the ball diff provides a lot of bottom end and plenty of top end with minor adjustments and some maintenance can be useful in mod racing where power is paramount! !
If you want maximum available traction why not use a gear diff in the rear?