I took my truck out the other day, after I fixed the servo saver after a month of being broken
I've been busy lol, everything was running well till my rear shock rod came out due to not having piston screw loc tited, luckily nothing was lost, not bad considering I ran this truck for 8 months without issue. I loc tited it and now 24 hours later I am putting shock oil in.
Can't help but notice the piston seems to be rubbing interior of shock body, causing stiction? When the piston and piston rod are outside shock body they move freely, but when inserted in shock body, the shock is noticeably stiffer.
I finally have my truck hitting jumps right and flying nicely. I added no weight, even though I bought the $30 TC3 brass weights, they aren't needed as my shoo goo and drywall tape repair of my body added enough weight to the front evenly distributed so they weren't needed. I leave the jump flat and depending on distance can lift or drop my nose with throttle or brake easily. No more nose high take offs and cartwheel crashes.
I am running
Exotek Chassis V.2
Exotek hubs center hole 4mm of washers
RC Shox Center Diff V.2 6 pins
7k front diff 5k rear diff
yellow springs in front and blue front springs in the rear
32.5 weight in the front and 27.5 in the rear.
front and rear shock towers center hole, lower arms outer hole
front ballstud 2.5mm outer hole, rear ballstud 7mm inner hole and 4mm on hubs
M2C toe block 3.5
white front sway bar / blue rear sway bar
-2 camber all around
ride height 24mm front 22mm rear
J concepts Barcodes Green
Tekin RX8 10 drag,85 current limiter,50 brakes, linear curve, geared 14/60
Tekin Pro 4 4600
temps esc 110 motor 149
Savox 1258 TG
Spektrum DX3R Pro
I wonder if I need to switch to different color sway bars? Any suggestions from fellow exotek chassis users? My truck is easier to control in air since I can actually control it now, but I feel like my suspension needs a little looksy.