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Old 06-18-2013, 02:07 AM
  #14616  
aaron125
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Originally Posted by CoryD
Start with 0. If you want more initial steering go with -1. If you want more on-power steering go with the +1.

I've been drinking a nice wine so I hope I got that right! HAHAH!

You will find that the aluminum c-hubs will give you more steering over stock so I would imagine that the 0's will be just fine.
One thing you didn't mention, which I found out in my own testing is that although the +1 inserts most definitely do give heaps more on-power steering and while the car has less on-power understeer, they induce quite a decent bit of understeer on the way into corners.

If only there were some way to allow the car to drive like it has a -1 on the way into corners and a +1 on the way out. That would be awesome!

Like with any change, everything's a trade-off.

Originally Posted by Tyson72
I think I will putting a hard rear shock tower in my shopping cart.
Went right over my car lastnight, and noticed a slightly bent rear shock tower. Mine is the darker anodized, so I see y they made a harder one.
The HA parts are absolutely no stronger than the ordinary brown anodized parts. The only difference is in the anodic layer, not the base alloy from which the part is milled. Therefore, the HA towers won't be even the tiniest bit better than the brown kit parts in terms of resistance to bending or torsional loads.

Also, it isn't actually possible to buy the brown anodized kit towers as an official, genuine spare/replacement part. But they've long been available on ebay for HEAPS less than anywhere else in the world (to the best of my knowledge). You can pickup the TKI3 kit rear tower (brand-new, removed from a kit) for about $15 including postage.
Buy the HA if you like the colour I say (or just want to waste your hard-earned $$$).
Originally Posted by McD44
Has anyone ever run the rear toe inserts on the opposite sides to get more than 3* of rear toe? I'm experimenting with setups (mainly to get to know the car better) and I'm going to try the 2.5 inserts on the "wrong" sides. That will give me about 3.5* of toe I imagine. I am also going to run long rear upper links and a bit more kickup. I'm hoping this will give me a setup that drifts nicely off power and squares up immediately on power. Much like Lamar's javelin that worked with his limp wristed throwing style I am searching for a setup that will work with my ham fisted driving style. (Anyone get that reference?)

Cody's worlds setup is great. I'm just playing around to see what I come up with.
I haven't ever tried running the rear toe inserts on the wrong side but I have tested the rear camber links in their longest configuration, inside on tower, outside on upright, to see what would happen and indeed the car drifts like there's no tomorrow. SO little traction from the rear end with the very long camber links but at least it did seem to be controllable drifting. Very progressive, but had so little grip I only left it like that for about 10mins and then changed back to normal.

Also, most people run the car with the maximum front kickup, as per all the team drivers or the kit setup, so if you're using any of Cody's setups, he always uses max kickup - not possible to adjust the car to allow any extra kickup.

Last edited by aaron125; 06-18-2013 at 03:37 AM. Reason: ebay rear tower
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