Originally Posted by
rnpnick
I run on fairly low-bite outdoor dirt tracks. What has been working for me is as follows.
Front
Shocks: 1/0
Link: 1A
Washers 1 blue 2mm washer
Ride: 24mm
Bump: 2mm
Caster: 30
Springs: Green
Oil: 32.5 2x1.6
Camber: -.5
Limiter: 3
Rear
Shocks: 1/I
Springs: White
Oil: 30 2x1.6
Link: 1/B, C HUBS
Washers: Shaved brace 0 washers
Wheelbase: Middle
Toe: 3
Squat: 2
Camber: -1/2
Limiter: 2
Ride: 23.5
All Plastic Parts. 0.5 Degree Rear Hubs, Wolfpack Shorty with center mount esc. Shorty Pushed forward with 14g behind servo. Full ballast under tranny mount. Running 8.5 with 24/81 gearing
Would love to hear suggestions on a better setup. So far this works fairly well; however if I touch the throttle at all on corner exit it wants to swap ends.
RNPNICK,
heres some things to try..
FRONT
inside on tower/out on arm
camber link inside on tower/a hole on hub
2mm bumpsteer
2x1.6 with 32.5 wt ae/green
2 internal limiters this gives u more forward bite coming out of tight 180's cause of the weight transfer to the rear
RAISE RH to 25mm
REAR
inside on tower/inside on arm
3degree inboard toe an 2 degree antisquat block
standard unshaved u brace with 1 shim/ a hole
hubs center/ RUN 0* rear hubs ( the .5 hubs sometimes has a reverse affect an actuallt will make the car get loose..
2x1.6 with 27.5wt
2 limiters/ greens or white rears
Raise RH to 25mm
put 1/4 oz in each rear triangle, plus the ae weight that guess under trans,an 1/20s next to rec..
-Personlly i would go back to the stock speelectronics mounting spots so u get ur chassis roll back an can take advantage of the camber gain..
-0 degree hubs
-try 23/81 or 22/78 to move motor..
But how well maintained is ur car? i mean is the bearing slop, or rear axles binding, diff need rebuilding???
also what speedo r u running cause now adays when brent theike told me when he sent me my speedo to get firmiliar with the different adjustment cause the totally will change ur cars feel, handling, an traction...
is ur EPA,dr,expos set right?