Originally Posted by
austinspeer810
I am sure everyone has broken a few parts here and there and that is what makes this hobby enjoyable as well as costly. I have a losi 22t and I love the truck to death, but I have broken a good deal of parts as well. Losi has a good way of maximizing their profit in my opinion. Lets say you break a spindle and you want to buy just ONE spindle. You have to buy both the left and right one in a package. You cannot just buy one spindle. I think it is very frustrating but also profitable on their end.
I have upgraded the steering slider to aluminum because I broke about 2-3 of them and please do not ask me how. Everyone asks me that and I cant give them an answer besides I just break it.
I know that aluminum parts are costly but when you break the same part over and over again, the aluminum part would be cheaper in the end. So all I want to know is what parts have you broken and replaced with aluminum? I want to keep it TLR only so I have all authentic team losi racing parts because I am OCD like that.
Honestly the parts breakage on the 22 series is much lower then most all other cars. As for parts packaging EVERYONE puts left and right in a bag. Tha is just how it is. Not a money maker just how things are done. Don't ever buy a Kyosho. Those parts trees for a single part would put you in a padded room if you are worried about L and R parts in the same bag.
Losi offers alum in most all the parts you would be most likely to break other then larger items like arms and towers. What you end up breaking is kind of personal thing. Yes I think we have all pretty much broken a slidder at some point and time if you drive enough. It is kind of the part that gives for not having a servo saver. Is it real common or a difficult or expensive part to break. Not really.
For upgrades. I recommend the alum hexes just for the fact as they always stay on when you remove the wheels. The fronts also help with the ball cup popping. I like Alum servo posts as I feel they help support the front end better and more consistant steering. I like the alum front bulkhead and camber blocks for extra weight up front. Rear camber block for the same reason. Alum battery tray for additional adjustability (especially with short packs). Does the car work and is it durable without these things absolutely. Do they help, I think so otherwise I would not use them.
One other thing the one piece king pins for the caster/spindle joint do help strengthen those parts. I also use this same pin for the arm to caster block joint. I put a 2mm spacer on either side of the arm to take up the extra space. Makes all that area bullet proof without the expense of alum.
I will be posting all of this up at
www.casper-rc.com shortly with some pictures. Getting all the pages setup as time permits this week so check out the new web site for other tips and tricks as well as all my std setups!
