I use it (actually have two)


What you need:

1) Ear Plugs and Ear Muffs - Trust me, yes both.
2) Safety Glasses
3) Battery to run Comp. Engine Heater and Starter (I use a old Marine 12 volt car style battery)
4) A good solid saw horse to mount break in bench on.
5) Two C-Clamps to hold the bench on the saw horse. The clamps on the break-in-bench vibrate loose, so I put a couple extra clamps on it. Not fun when it comes loose with a running engine turning a prop.
6) A box fan or similar - does a couple things - use it while running the engine to blow the exhaust away and use it to cool the engine between runs.
7) A Heat gun - I like the variable temp/wattage type so I can regulate the temp better.
8) You will need to make yourself a wind shield to go between the prop and the engine. I cut up an old plastic ice cream bucket lid and covered it in tin foil so it doesn't melt.
9) you need to find a place to do the engine running that won't piss your entire neighborhood off. I go to my work and use the shop after hours.
10) You obviously need all you nitro stuff (Temp Gun, Ignitor, Fuel, Bottle, Tuning screw Driver, Etc.)
11) Stopwatch or timer
12) Chair to sit on
13) Notebook and pencil to record what you have done

My Procedure:

1) Get everything setup and within arms reach, Engine on Stand, Stand on saw horse, Engine heater and Starter Hooked up, Heat gun plugged in, Temp gun, ignitor, screw driver, stop watch, your homemade wind/Heat shield, all within reach.

2) Preheat engine with comp heater to as hot as it will get the engine - mine usually gets around 150 degrees.

3) Preheat the engine using the heat gun to at least 200 Degrees. I leave the comp heater on and plugged in and heat the side and rear of the engine with the heat gun until temp is reached. Make sure your homemade heat shield is in use otherwise the heat gun will melt the Prop and guard on your hudy bench. Also, be careful not to melt the fuel tank.

4) Start the engine, monitoring the temp constantly making sure the temp is above 200. If not use the heat gun to keep it above 200. The engine heater is still on the engine and plugged in. You will need to use the heater and heat gun to keep the temp in the engine. Also - use your homemade heat/wind shield to keep the prop air off the engine.

5) Use the starter to kill the engine at the prop cone.

6) Cool the engine to room temp using the fan. Once cooled do it all again.


My Break-in method is:

I run the engine above 200 and then cool to room temp following the below procedure. I will lien it out a small amount every run, until the temp holds itself above 200 with the engine heater on - the amount you need to lien is going to be different for every engine. I also add some byron's lube booster to the fuel (Caster Oil).

1st run - 3 min idling
2nd run - 3 min idling
3rd - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
4th - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
5th - 3 min idling to 1/4 throttle
6th - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
7 - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
8 - 4 min idling to 1/2 throttle
9 - 5 min idling to 3/4 throttle
10 - 5 min idling to 3/4 throttle
11 - 5 min idling to Full throttle
12 - 5 min idling to Full throttle

Put in car and run 2 or 3 tanks on the track with the engine just slightly fat. After that Race tune.
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This is what I do - It may not be the right way - but its my way. I have two break-in-benches so I generally break two engine in at the same time. One is running the other is cooling. And to be honest breaking in engines sucks, Its the worst part of this hobby - This year I will likely send my new engines to RCRenew and pay to have them broken in.