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12-24-2012 | 05:05 AM

#31806

dday

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Joined: Mar 2012

Posts: 34

Quote:

Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4

Hi guys getting my truck set up during christmas break

I've been reading this thread from start to finish for a month now and am on page 1860 so almost caught up

So happy I missed the whole exotek clutch debate, it was no fun reading thru it.

I have installed
Exotek LCG V.2 Chassis
RC SHOX V.2 Center Diff
Castle 3800 1410 SCT ESC
Savox 1258
Spectrum DX3S with cap on receiver/ so no glitching or brown outs.
RPM arms front and rear
Sway Bars White Front, Blue Rear
Shocks 32wt front 27wt rear
Yellow springs on front, Blue Front springs on rear
12mm Aluminum Hexs
Proline Flo Tek

I am about to tear apart my front and rear diffs and rebuild and replace paper seals and diff fluid.

I will be changing diff fluid to 7000wt Front 5000wt rear for center diff. My LHS had no Team associated 7000 wt diff fluid so I purchased Losi 7000wt diff fluid. Will this be a issue? It costs $3 more than Team Associated Fluid so hope it works

I believe wild cherry posted to use 2 paper diff seals on each diff and it will eliminate leaky diffs otherwise theres the kyosho grease I believe Mantis posted using.

Can I get away with reusing my installed diff paper seal if it isn't torn or damaged and just installing one additional paper seal?

I will be running on a indoor hard packed clay track that is damp, the tire of choice is Barcodes super soft. Can I get away with Barcodes in any other hardness.
Anyone have a set up they recommend for this type of track? Would the 8mm mod be useful to me?

I've used search, but found nothing on these 2 specific questions.

Will the paper diff seals from a sc10 fit a sc104x4

and
I want to shim up the diff gears to eliminate outdrive wobble.
I'm not sure if I should use the .5 washer some people have been using and team associated is sending out if you call them? or the xray .3 I've read people are using?
Can someone please tell me the dimensions/part#/link/ or easy way to find the xray .3 washers that people are using because when I asked for them at the LHS nobody there had no clue but tried to sell me 4 different kits because one of them had to have what I needed

I don't know which one is preferable to use xray.3 or .5 washer?
Also if I use the .3 washer its one .3 washer under sun gear on each side of diff remove stock shim?
I also read somewhere one .3 shim and leave .2 stock shim on other side?

I also read that putting 2oz/3oz of weight in front and sides of servo will help truck handling even with the exotek.
I am running a regular stick pack .

You don't mention in your setup anything about limiting up travel of the shocks. This is done to "fix" the main reason that the diffs are leaking in the first place. If you don't limit up travel you will note when the suspension arm is compressed the dog bone contacts the edge of the diff drive cups, which then causes the shim/washer under the sun gear to cone. Once you have coned that shim the diffs will then leak around the drive cup. The kit instructions show spacers that are to be attached to the shock shaft below the rubber dust boots and above the rubber shock shaft bumpers. Attaching the correct amount of spacers stops the dog bone from hitting the side of the drive cup and bending the cone washer. I couldn't find my kit spacers once I realized my diffs were leaking. Instead I drilled a slightly larger 3.5mm center hole in some spare 2wd shock pistons I had sitting around in my toolbox. They worked perfectly to stop uptravel just short of the bone hitting the edge of the drive cup.

If you purchase a "fresh" diff rebuild kit you will find that the thicker shims are now included in the parts content. If your rebuild kit is "old" stock all you have to do is call associated and they will mail you the correct new shims free of charge.

If you have run the car a while with leaking diffs it is also likely you will have worn the sun and spider gears enough that they will slip and "click" under load, even with the new thicker shims installed. To visually verify the condition of you existing diff gears clean off all the remaining fluid and place the old gear face up next to the new rebuild kit gear. The new gear teeth appear sharp/tall/pointed while worn gear teeth will look fat/short/wide where they should be pointed.

I doubt the paper gasket is the reason your diffs are leaking, and will be confirmed when you open the diff up and find coned washers/shims under your sun gears. I have reused my paper gaskets many times when changing the thickness of diff fluids and never had them leak.

Don

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