Originally Posted by
jimjav
anyone??
regards
I have had no luck doing this either. When I have the diff assembled it feels smooth, but any kind of load blows the gears out, thats when running shims or not, its like it just doesn't mesh right.
Originally Posted by
TryHard
So, tonight I had a little play around with the steering rack on my car. Given the talk of using FF steering posts recently to lower the rack a little, I had a thought that with the space on the car, possibly it could be lower still, opening up some more options for tuning the bump steer.
The pics show what I ended up with. Flipping the bellcranks (to the original 411 style) and servo post, and then using a 1.5mm shim underneath, the whole rack has dropped about 2.5mm.
With the standard TE rack install, the cross brace is about 11mm off the chassis (pic shows 11.5 ish, but the angle is off), whilst the lowered rack is 8.5mm. Only special parts I needed was a standard nut on the forward screw of the servo mount (third pic), and to trim a little material off the battery brace for full lock. I will also trim down the servo posts for clearance of the servo tie-rod. Clearance is fine, no issues with catching the belt at all
With that setup, running 2.5mm shims on the steering hub gives the same bumpsteer setting as kit, but also means less can be run as well... hopefully will get to try this out this weekend
Might need a slight tweak to the ackerman spacers as well though, as a lower outer ball joint will move slightly forward (steering hub is at 4° due to castor), will have a play around with it if I get the chance.
Regards
Ed
I will have to give this a try.
Another thought I had which I've tried, but would like to see what you think ED, is on the shock towers. I removed the lower screw and replaced it with long set screw, to act like a pin and then just use the top screw to secure it to the upper bulkheads. Much like the pinned shock towers of the Yok. The only think was that the long set screw needed to loc-tited in.