Originally Posted by
lsbass
The diff itself didnt feel notchy at all really, it was once I put the diff in the case that I noticed it. Ive got 3 tubes of great grease on order so lets hope it takes care of that.
Ive only broken in the diffs using the method in the manual. Is there a better way?
Do yourself a favor and order 5000, 7000, & 3000 wt. diff oil (AE preferred, but not crucial). 5k in the front, 7k in the center, and 3k in the rear. You wont be sorry. When filling them, bring the oil level ONLY to the top of the spider gear (small gear) shaft. To seal the diffs good, take a printer cartridge ink refill kit syringe, or a dyabetic insulin syringe and pull some ca into it, then you can put a tiny bead around the base of your insert on the diff case and then push the insert in place. Then wipe off the excess ca from the diff case. I replaced my o-rings with ones I got in a Harbor Freight o-ring kit. It really comes in handy for several things. Ie: shock caps (instead of cutting your bladders up) and all 3 diffs. Make sure you have all your shims installed in the right places, and coat your diff case gasket with a little grease (doesn't matter what kind), snug the screws down and you're set. Don't worry about it feeling a little notchy, this is normal. After installing the diff back into the final drive case, apply a lite grease (lithium, etc.) to the gear mounted on the diff and the CVD shaft gear. Then close it all up. To break your diffs in, hold your truck up on 1 side, letting both wheels on the other side stay on the ground and give it light throtle for 30 sec. Then switch. Then hold the fronts off the ground, then the rears. 30 sec. each. You're done. Hope this helps.