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Old 09-26-2012, 07:31 PM
Tech Adept
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 120

Originally Posted by rcwck View Post
Look/listen to Border r/c video above. That sounds about right.

Thought we were talking about esc heating up? Is esc temp ok now?

Fan(s) should keep motor temp under control. Voltron has a good dual set up on his motor(pic posted). I have seen Tekin motors approaching 300. Motors will be short lived much above 180. Get some air flow also. I have 2 ducts from the windshield, one to the esc and one to the motor. Maybe some grill cut outs or brake ducts for the Snake just like the real race cars. These heavy cars really heat up things if you drive hard and use push brake. My esc will still thermal if I'm too hard on the brakes. Make sure zero or very little drag brake. Limit max braking in software or better yet at Tx braking end point. Using Tx end point allows you to dial in max brake on the track. I never have tires lock up under braking. My Kyosho GT2 conversion has mechanical brakes so no braking/heat issues there. Some have added mechanical brakes just for that reason.

Track temp also may require different gearing. When track temps are 130-150 I use a shorter gear.

I would zero out the timing. Doubt if you'd notice any performance change.

Are you sure your temp checker is accurate? I have seen those cheap ones way off. I have had some. Spit on finger placed on motor would instantly boil off at that temp. That's the method we used back in the day. Spit should slowly disappear.

10 minutes is way more than I can run hard using 6800 70C 4S lipos. Which tends to confirm your shorter gearing.

These cars can be frustrating about heat issues. I have had several heat issues and have spent hours/days sorting things out. I am lucky that I live very close to a great track where I can test. All members get a key.

Click on Aerial movie of track:

Is this an offroad used motor? It is cleaned out with good bearings? Just a last thought.
Thanks for the input. ESC has never shut off, it seems to be fine. The temp gun I have is a RYOBI from Home Depot. It was about $40.00 and seems fairly accurate. Dont think it would be off as much as we are talking here. The ESC was running around 130 - 140ish degrees. I agree this is pretty frustrating. I have not been back into the hobby for too long but I have a pretty steep learning curve when it comes to this kind of stuff. Could the motor just be under powered for the application? Does the crazy thick diff oil tax the motor more? It is 300,000 in front / center, and 40,000 in the rear. Is that a factor? I always thought the lower kv motors would run cooler and you could just gear up if you wanted to go faster. Does not seem to be the case here. I think I will do another test and run it about the same with the body off and see if that makes a huge difference.
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