Originally posted by InitialD
Michael Salven always use rear aluminum shock body and the stock one in front. 1/8th as well as on 1/10th.
Dang! He copied that from me!
[i]Onkel Sow, where on earth did you get orange clutch shoes?
From Mordor?
[/B]
Now THAT would be telling ...
[i]Did you get the bronze coloured ones or the black ones? [/B]
Bronze.
[i]What are their teeth numbers on the belts? Do they fit? [/B]
Another guy has the G4. Comparing them looks like they'll work. Haven't tried yet but boviously the middle belt does not fit.
[i]Where are you getting yours? Someone here at the local track is testing a self made one. One is testing a oneway with rear solid and the other is testing solid front and rear. I'll post pics when I have the time. This friend of mine gave me to have a look at a "pre-production" one that was heavy. He's using a revised one that he made himself which is lighter. He said that acceleration in the straights line is very good. Better than the rear ball diff. But it only works on very few tracks. The setup tends to like stiffer rear and front sway bars. [/B]
Got mine from Elite Hobbies here in the UK. They've machine a few for the factory drivers, I had to beg for mine. I told them don't send any to Germany.
Yes, the set-up sounds about right. Actually Mark Green prefers NOT to use them unless the track is smooth. The contant bounce on tracks which are not smooth puts too much strain on the drive train.
I've posted a pic of it in my gallery at 3hobby.com.