Originally Posted by
jsp619
Thanks Scott i believe the idle gap is set from factory am i correct in that? It looks pretty small compared to an os that is normally at 1mm, i double check with calipers before break in but i think i am good. i am not a big fan of touching needles until the motor has let go of at least 80% of it metal pinch i use my radio to keep in idling, also it is the five port as it has the grey case. I also purchased a weeks B2 to have with the disco i believe these two engine should compliment each other well. From everything i have read it seems that you do not want to touch the idle on these engines just use the LSN for idle speed and hen for overall power.
No the idle gap is not set from the factory on any LM engine. Scott is basically quoting the tuning method that I came up with for our engines a couple of years ago which you can find more details about on any of our threads. Be aware though that anytime you lean your HS needle as he is indicating your LS needle is going to lean out also (as fuel flows through your HS needle first and then through your LS needle). So when you lean your HS your idle speed will increase and you have to compensate for that by richening your LS if you use my fixed 0.5mm air gap system
Also to save you some trouble down the road, rule of thumb is never blindly trust that how the needle settings came on your engine from the factory are correct for break in no matter what brand you are using. It's your engine in your car with your unique set up and you need to adjust your engine for that. It is never a good idea to just leave them like they came and not touch them until you are 80% of the way through the break in process. If you need some help with detailed break in instructions take a look at the first post on any of my threads. This system will work with any engine from any brand