Originally Posted by
ABN Hoosier
Spark,
I went with reversing the rear hubs also (Left is Right and Right is now Left). I currently have the CF tower extensions, 12mm ball studs, and went with 6mm of spacers on the stud. The 8mm of spacers on the stud left only a short amount of threads left on the ball stud which wouldn't thread into the metal eyelet where it is screwed into on the bulkhead. Maybe there is a 14mm ball stud that could be used? I have the camber link on the middle hole on the hub and the inside hole on the bulkhead. I noticed that when setting the rear camber I had to shorten the camber link a lot and it bottomed out on the camber link rod end where it was putting pressure on the ball link causing binding where when I did a swing test on the arms with the shocks off.
With all that said, I think that having a straighter camber link is a good thing. My buggy and truggy and about every RC I have seen has a camber link that is parallel with the arm itself. I am thinking though I might have to remove about 2 to 3mm of camber link (metal part) to reach -2mm of camber where the camber link isn't bottoming out on the camber link end causing binding.
Did you run into any of these issues? Is there any change to toe by reversing the rear hubs? Also, how is this Mod working out for you?
-Hoosier
Middle hole? There are only 2 holes when you flip the carbon hub...
I tried it with the L/R hubs switched but I didnt like how it was rubbing on the spring so I put it back. I never got to the point of adjusting the camber link so I cant comment on it bottoming out.