Originally Posted by
bschanz
Hey guys. I have the original 4x. bought her the first week it was available. I am preparing for my first race this upcoming weekend. I have helped build a new track in Delray Beach, Fl recently with opening day June 3rd. The track is large, and hardpacked clay with a good layer of dust when dry. I was running the castle 3800 4 pole with the 48p spur. was using a 22p pinion and having some nasty slipper problems like i've read on here for nearly a year. When i got home, I took her down and dropped the diff oil in the front. I installed the FT slipper assy with 32p spur but did not use the high torque pads. My originals were glazed so I sanded them a bit and reinstalled them with the FT parts. Now, I get a clicking noise that happens under load. I can't tell if it is the front or the rear. I have tried to tighten the slipper, but it really is a click, not the bark type noise a slipper will give. I have some high torque pads on the way. (here thursday) but think that i may have the diff click i read a short bit about on here.
Time for shims? Also, I don't wanna tear this truck down before my first race because I won't have enough time. can anyone also link me or part number me to the right diff shims for this truck?
Thanks in advance.
Ben
Clicking gear
(above may help people searching in the future?)
To add to what kewltoy gave you, the cause of the clicking or skipping gears is the lack of shock travel limiter clips on the shock shaft (3-4mm) under the rubber bumper.
The shocks up travel needs to be limited or your a arm and your cvd will come into contact with the outdrive pushing it up. Then the pin on the inside of the diff that goes through the outdrive pulls into the sun gear shim creating a loose gear mesh and you start skipping gears.
A couple pages back someone posted a pick of him grinding out the inside of the outdrive allowing more angle to the cvd and only needed 2mm of shock shaft clips... clips came in the shock bag when you built the truck.
If you push one arm all the way up in its travel, you will see that the recessed cup in the stock a arm will come in contact with the outdrive and the cvd will as well, there is more than likely a wear line or ring around the cvd shaft where it contacts the outdrive.
Its been talked about many times on this thread, but kinda like finding a needle in a 1600 page hay stack.
As for the shims, stock is 0.2 thick this is 0.3 thick and gives you proper gear mesh, replace both of the shims.
http://www.trick-parts.com/product_p/tps5103.htm
Someone posted about AE recently changing that shim to 0.5 thick and then you dont use the shim on the outside of the diff case... but I'm not sold on that setup. But they obviously recognize that the gear mesh was too loose.
At least add the limiting clips before the race so your diff does not self destruct and then tear it down after.