Love the guide thanks

Just one thing tho, im pretty sure that 3.5 turns in from flush on the slipper nut is for the old version slipper. I might be wrong but every thing i have read and done so far seems this way.

Also with following the guide perfectly I junked a diff straight away.
with a 2wd SC10 and a 6200 lipo 60C mounted all the way forward(heavy weight very forward on a long big truck) and a V2 slipper in 3.5 turns then holding down rear wheels, the diff slipped straight away making a horible noise and make the diff gritty from flat spoting the balls straight up. Trust me the diff was built correctly and very tight as well, could not make it slip with hand at all.

I just want other people with a similar setup truck not to wreck there diff straight up.

I know the guide is for a buggy mainly, but it does mention that same will work for t4 and sc10 etc.....


Flame me if you want, but I aint no newb to ep cars, just off road ep ones and I dont want other people that might be new to do the same as me.

I think if you run a mod motor & big battery pack and like it forward in a sc10, dont try to get the wheels to lift off the ground when setting the V2 slipper, start with a setting of say about 1mm of thread showing then tune for track conditions

other wise overall its a awesome guide

You may be onto something their. I just put a fresh diff in my SC10 for this past weekend. It feels like gravel now. The first one I put in there was smooth as butter for a long time.

since watching these videos, i havent had A SINGLE PROBLEM with ball diffs when usually i was replacing them everyother week, i have had this one in for 3 months and still feels smooth and works amazing!!

whats the benefit of doing this?