Originally Posted by
GSM Storm
Thanks, will give it a go on Tuesday avro, I agree with you on the shocks, they do seam twitchy with the bladder, our main problem is if he brakes before turn in the rear tends to rotate too much and very quickly, have tried a lot of different things, may be partly the way he is driving it, the track is decomposed granite, hard packed, get dusty off line but does hold a bit of a black groove, we have to use Proline hole shots at a up coming meeting, fronts are free, have been running AKA Rebar fronts but I am thinking they may have too much bite, he did like the feel of the JC Rips.
Regards
Gary
Tires are very specific to the surface, so go with what guys are running there at the track. Also make sure the brakes are not at 100% on the EPA on his remote. That may cause the rear to swing a bit much. Maybe bring it down a bit to have a more controlled braking effect. Also what we've noticed is when running too much anit-squat the rear over rotates. Off power my car would swing around way too much with full 4.5* anti squat, add 1.5mm of shims to bring it to 3* overall and you should be good. But again you may need to play with things here or there. The battery selection I found by far to be the biggest factor in how the car handled. With the shorty pack the car is locked, width wise positioned towards the rear.
If all that doesnt work, try this...remove all the posts and get the moulded upper deck mounts(eliminating the need for the turnbuckle). Take the stock top deck, dremel it down to remove the rear ears and run it like that with no posts. This will give you a lot more flex which should equal more traction. Right now Im using the +8mm top deck and the car feels great. But if you dont have that piece, go with what I said...all you will need are the molded upper pivot mounts.