Thread: TC3 Forum
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Old 09-02-2004, 08:16 AM   #9288
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BADSIGN: It sounds like to me its a combination of a few things. If it was me, the first thing i would do is change the camber link location. If there is a good amount of bite on the track, then i would move the front camber link to the upper/inner hole on the tower. If there isnt that much bite, then i would move the rear camber link to the lower/inner hole instead. The oil may be a bit soft, try 50wt front and rear. If you arent running bladders in your shocks, you may need to swap to 60wt instead to help compensate. Those bladders make a HUGE difference in shock action. (with that said, you may want to goto red sprong front and blue spring rear) Also change the front shock piston to a #3. The kickup would be the next biggest change. Swap it to the F-2 degree block, and change your carriers to the 2 degree blocks to keep caster the same. The camber link change will make the biggest difference, the kickup/caster will be the second biggest change. The two combined will make the car better, but changed alone/separately can make it feel worse. Oil will be third, because it affects both ends of the car, with the shock piston being last, which will smooth out the front transitioning rate. A rear swaybar would definitely add more steering, so i would stay away from that until you try the other changes. The goal should be to set the actual chassis up first, meaning, any part of the chassis that affects weight transfer. Camber links control the rate of weight transfer through corners, hingepin mounts do this for the arms. Shocks and swaybars are fine tune adjustments. If you have a loose condition created by no rear toe, short or too high a camber link, or the wrong caster/suspension mount on the front (just to name a few), then you would have to goto extremes with shock/swaybar settings to compensate. If you fix the chassis settings first, then the rest of the car will setup easily, with changes easily felt on the track. This is what is meant by a "free" handling car - through the corners. The chassis doesnt "bind up", but turns efficiently and consistently. I hope that all made sense. Let me know how it works for ya!

JOHNBULL: I agree totally on the TC4. I think its a great release, one us diehards were expecting! I will not however be buying a TC4. I read on the AE website that there was little/no change to the driveline. Since i have already done so much work to the driveline of my TC3, i will be buying the few parts necessary to "convert" it to a TC4. The driveline is by far the most expensive part of the car, i have over $400 USD tied up into it. I see no need to pay for it again. I am however impressed with AE's decision to massage the car that made this sector of the hobby what it is. As always, i will be proud to put my cars on the track!

KH15: Sometimes it is best to go ahead and save a few more bucks for the better product. In this industry, its generally true what they say, you get what you pay for. Im in no way trying to steer you from buying any certain product, but just giving you food for thought. All these years in this hobby, i never got better at it by buying the cheaper product, just bought myself more problems. Remember, when you buy something like that, it is geared more for the person that really isnt into hardcore racing, if that is the case then you are headed in the right direction. There really are two types of r/c buyers, those that buy for fun, and those that buy to win. As long as you keep that in mind, you will always know what you need to buy to satisfy your needs. I personally am itching for a Traxxas Revo... i would LOVE to thrash that thing!! Can you imagine that thing 15 feet in the air off of a motorcross style jump?! My TC3 would die if i tortured it like that!!

- DaveW
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