Originally Posted by
FLHX1550
If you look on the team setup sheets, they list droop as "100mm" (or whatever) that is the length of the shock from the center of the eye on the top, to the center of the eye on the bottom.
Droop screws are too inconsistent (they move, get dirt stuck between them and the chassis).
I myself run no limiters, and will turn the rear shock eyelets out 1 or 2 turns depending on conditions.
Droop screws are ok as along as you have the inserts in the chassis. If you use the alum chassis as a stop then you dig in holes and it changes. Yeah if you race in wet loose condtions you can get dirt in there but not aways. I agree shock length can be better but droop screws can be very convienent if you drive in many different coniditions.