Originally posted by guycali
AFM,
I've seen your posts about breakin procedures for EVO2 engines. What about non-EVO engines like the original 12TRP black head? Is it the following steps described by you correct? -Wilbur
OK, lets see. If you don't have a Break-In bench the traditional procedure you quoted from me is OK:
Start the engine with the general settings. After it is running, open the HSN 1/4 of a turn at at a time until the engine starts to load up, then turn the HSN in 1/4 of a turn in and let in run at idle for at least 1 tank. The idle must be even, if rpm's go down or up, close or open the LSN 1/8 th of turn at a time. Let engine cool completely after first tank, and make absolutely sure piston is BDC during cool-off. Repeat this 4 more tanks and your "heat cycling" idle break-in is done, then it is time for track break-in for 4 more tanks, leaning HSN little by little until you end up with nearly at general setting on the HSN.
My EVO2 ended up with full power, with 5 3/4 out on the HSN and 3 7/8 out on the LSN, and at that point it is flush with the slide end.
If you have, or can get a Run-In bench this is the procedure suggested by the factory for all .12 engines:
1.- One (1) 125cc tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN, avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.
After that, the engine will give more power every new tank.
Which means that Breaking-In Sirios, should be done with more or less 300 to 500cc of fuel
Hope it's clear
AFM