I got almost a quart of fuel through the engine today in very small increments. Break in of this engine is every bit the PITA that everyone said it was
A few things I noticed that will hopefully help others..
It is redonkoulously tight..you have to preheat it good in order to fire it and also in order to keep it running...try to keep the heat away from the carb and the servo's
..If you overheat it the fuel will vaporize in the carb and if you underheat it it will lock up on you repeatedly which is bad for the Con-rod. (220-240 is optimum)
This is one of the few engines that is actually very sensitive to your break in tune. I had a bitch of a time finding the sweet spot to keep it running and also to make sure it was getting proper lubrication. I must have flamed out about 100 times during the 6 tanks I put through it today...If your tune is too rich it loads up and dies, but the kicker is that its very small adjustments to the lean side or else it will instantly go lean because of the high pinch and heat.
The idle is all over the place during break in and I had to re-tune it pretty much every half a tank of fuel...the more pinch it lost the more it had to be adjusted to stay running, obviously the LSN needed tuning with the idle, but you all know that already.
Double check factory needle settings! Mine were out from flush about 1 mm on both of the main needles and was so fat it would not turn over. Set both needles right about flush and then adjust your idle from there. It ran great at times with the idle about .75 and I had to fluctuate the idle between 1mm open and .50 open depending on the tune required to keep it running.
The more fuel you put through it the more it needs to be tuned properly to stay running. Keep an eye on temps of both the engine and the carb..dont drop below 200 and dont exceed 250 if you can.
Remember that the key is just to get fuel through it, so dont get frustrated. It is a bit of a pain but should all be worth it in the long run...