Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg

I asked a AE engineer who shall remain nameless so he does not get blasted with questions but here is what he told me about raising and lowering rear camber.

Me: I can't find info out there about rear camber links, and we chatted before about it. All things being the same. Raising the inside and out side of the link up 2mm should make what happen. I assume the opposite would take place to lower them both 2mm. Is it as simple as high bite lower is better and low bite higher is better kind of thing? Tight track vs. larger sweeping corner track? I just want to make sure what I think is happening on the track is correct.

Him: Sorry to get back to you kinda late on this, I had read it on my phone and meant to reply later but forgot.

You are basically correct. when you raise both inside and outside you are going to be lowering the roll center, which creates a larger lever arm for the car's CG. As a result the car rolls more when both are raised. When grip is low and you are trying to make the tires work as hard as possible and the ones that should be doing the most are the outside tires, because when the car has more roll it is able to transfer more weight quicker. Thats what makes the car feel like it has more traction. However, if you try and use that same setup on high bite you are likely going to traction roll because now the car is able to transfer too much weight too quickly because the suspension links act less 'rigid' initially and then CG is able to generate too much force for that length lever.

When you lower both then you have raised the roll center and as a result for a same given lateral acceleration as before the car will not roll as much. This will help prevent the car from traction rolling due to excessive body roll, and will help distribute the work load to all of the tires, and thus you can achieve higher cornering speeds.

When picturing this affect you can think of a Jeep cherokee vs a corvette taking a corner at a given speed, the jeep will generate more body roll. But you got the right thinking going, and should be pretty noticeable raising and lowering the links. Another thing to consider is that when you lower both or just lower the inside location, you will also be increasing camber gain. Which can affect mid-corner stability, which would only be worse at higher speeds.

Hope all this dribble helps, if not let me know and I will try to clarify!

Me: More blah blah stuff.

Him: Well the other thing I have found is that when you do raise the roll center it can give you the feeling that the car has more grip or more stable coming off of a straight. However, then the issue becomes that the car doesnt feel like it wants to rotate around tight corners as well, but this experience is from our other 1/10 cars. The 4x4 is a little edgier so maybe it helps balance it out. But in general I would think on that truck that lowering inside is better.

So from all of this, this past weekend was our first outdoor race of the year year. Loose top soil with hard pack under it. Very smooth track but you power slide out of corners and most of the time in. You have loads of tire spin basically. My normal rear link is stock with 2mm under the inside. I raised the outside 4mm (all I could do with the hot racing hubs) and the inside to 5mm (all I can do with the stock ball stud) and the truck was better. More controlled for sure around the track drifting in and out of corners. I did drop from the blue rear bar to the orange one also and that helped. I custom made a tab to raise the outside 8mm but the quality of the material was poor and I did not run it in fear of breaking it. So next weekend I should be able to test Kody's/WC rear tab idea with a longer inner ball stud and taller outer tab. Not sure yet of the effects on high bite but for outdoors I see it being an improvement with the loose dirt.