Originally Posted by
rb-digi
i also have the desire to go to hexs as they are trick lookin and will save removal of wheel bearings in the front wheels.i see it making more economial scense in t4 cause the wheels are the same front to rear once u convert to hexes. You mentioned your b4 "spit" two screws i am gonna assume u mean they came loose..I am surprised cause i run a b4.1ft and i have never had this issue..i thought i would when i first got into buggy but after almost 6 months of raing 1-2 times a week it hasnt ever had a front wheel screw come loose and i havent used any thread locking stuff.When you tightnen it doen does it make that little "click" when it bottoms out?..and u said u are stripping the bolts when ur tryin to remove them? are u sure ur not accidentaly using a metric allen key or a cheaper one that is striping easily..im not tryin to come off as a smart ass as i may learn something here and save a d.n.f. in a important race..i only race indoor and i have run into where clay or pvc has gotten into the hex part of front axel nuts and made me "almost " strip them out cause i could get the hex driver to sit flush and get a good "bite"...again not tryin to suggest stoopid things if thats not what it is,just wondered cause i havent seen this happening much on any of my competitors b4.1 ..i do see 22 front wheels ghost riding around tho =]
No worries, your not coming off any way. I respect your reasoning. Yea I meant two came loose. I'm pretty certain i was using the right hex driver as I used it all through the build and the size is marked on the handle. Now the condition of the tip could be suspect for a couple reasons 1 it is old and two it's a Losi Factory tool

. Never heard any click when installing, didnt think to listen. Since those incidents I have beacked off a bit on how tight I go and it hasn't happened so who knows, maybe over-tightening is bad in this case. At any rate the conversion is relatively cheap so I will go that route.
Kevin