First off, I appreciate all of the insight!
Originally Posted by
RasCalDK
Try letting the additive stay a bit longer on the tires, that tends to be the problem with losing grip. Could also be the wrong additive, for the surface you're running on.
Do you use the 1.2mm rear sway-bar?
And do you use full length rear camber links?
How thick is the geardiff oil?
Do you run with the screw, going through the topdeck into the motormount? If then try running without.
These to things do surprisingly much on the car..
Don't use too much steering lock, you can run as low as 65%, but adjust to your needs.
I have let the additive sit for up to 30 min, and it makes no difference from that to 6 min (1 heat previous). I am using SXT, which is the only thing permitted on our track. Danny uses the same. Tracks are ozite carpet, medium grip.
No rear sway bar, 1.4 front, per the recommendation of a Tamiya and Xray driver. Camber links are stock, which I would describe as medium length, inner hole on the outside, inner hole in the inside. Diff oil is 1200wt (stock). I have 800 and 2000 as options as well. Danny was running half 1k, half 2k, and was pleased with the results. Comparing brand to brand though is tough. V1 motor mount, all top deck screws in. Steering expo is at 60%, end points are just before the knuckle hits the c-hub.
Originally Posted by
cwoods34
I'm not sure running the rear shocks laid all the way down with such a soft spring is a good idea. I would try the 3 or 4 hole with a 1.2 swaybar. I actually gained rear traction standing my shocks up to the 5 hole on some layouts.
I am pretty sure it is not a good idea, as I assume that it is part of the cause of my tires overheating. I have tried running up several holes (several options, several runs), and all it does is make the back end loose at the beginning (undriveably so if more then 2 holes up from the bottom). I can try the swaybar, but not sure, as my car seems to be reacting differently from Danny's.
Originally Posted by
JamesReilly
PS, I agree with the last posts sometimes laying the shocks down feels better at first then as the race does on develops into a more loose condition and standing them up locks it in more.
Removing the screw in the top deck helps a ton, look for my eariler post about using a set screw so that you dont have a issue with stripping a spur ( i know some dont have a issue ) I've lately really liked the one piece mount with the top deck cut in half right where that screw does. I don't think I would change it back.
It does feel better at first, and then I lose the traction when the tires overheat. But currently, as least it feels better at first. Standing the shocks up, it feels awful from beginning to end. I have a last place main finish to show for it, as I was still tinkering, and was assured that would help. I have not tried the V2 mount (I have it) or the lose/removed topdeck screw. What is odd to me is how different my car handles then Danny's. Unknown on his car is if the top deck, or any of the plastics are different from stock. His shock oil is a little lighter in the front, but otherwise we are set almost the same, minus the shock position. When I mimic'd his setup, my car was undriveable.