Originally Posted by
bds81175
You can't be a noob, you have more posts than I do!!
The anti-squat is adjusted by little shims that slip under the inside hinge pin rear toe in bracket. The thicker the shim the more antisquat. The A, B and C hub carrier blocks alter the position of the outside rear camber link. The A and B I believe are the same height but alter the position in relation to each other horizontally. The carbon fiber C bracket actually lowers the link mount location.
thanks for the info., im a noob to this electric stuff. raced it over 8yrs ago but alot has changed. raced mostly 1/8th scale truggy when i got back in to it.
i am trying to get rid of of an off power push. we have to 180* turns and i have to almost stop and then gently drive through them and i am losing most of my time there. every thing else is great and trying to do this with out messing up anything else with the setup.
finally got a good gearing set up on there (i think) and got some good batteries for the car. i want to get away from the sensorless rtr motor.
my one big disadvantage is the track is only open on race day so practice is a little crazy and i am not comfortable enough making the cnages there because its a false reading of what the car is going to do in the race. i try one thing at a time but not a lot has worked yet