Originally Posted by
RCNitro13
Actually, come to think of it I did put after run oil the day before, maybe a few too many drops
The clutch shoes/springs and fuel line were all replaced/new.
But the motor wasnt holding tune hence changing the bearing, I put the needles back to flush and tried to lean out a bit but it just didnt feel right.
In the second 7min heat today the engine felt fine then it seemed to lose power noticing a lot more fuel around the flywheel, in the first heat the motor felt OK but with less fuel.
Sounds like you might have the "average woman tune" on your motor. Lean on top with a big gap and fat bottom end
.
Check your idle gap is .5mm to .7mm max. If the idle gap is too wide you will have a much too rich bottom end and a lean top end to compensate.
Things will run ok (about 80% of what they should be) until the tank level drops to around half or below. Then because of the lean top end you are running (that enables the motor to run ok with the way rich bottom end) the motor will sag makedly in performance and come in really hot.
Set the idle gap as above, and if the motor won't idle with this gap, then bring the idle up by LEANING THE BOTTOM END - do not touch the idle screw.
You will now need to richen the top end as well. Once you have the motor running with the reduced idle gap, fine tune from there and only touch the idle when tuning is complete if you need to just settle the idle down a little.
If this is the problem the overly rich bottom end may be causing the weeping front bearing. Give it a go and see what happens
As a byline to the above - with the GO long LSN carbs, if you get lean bog below half tank level - richen the HSN by an hour at a time until the lean bog goes. Do not touch the bottom end. It is the HSN restricting the fuel flow from a lower tank pressure that is causing the lean bog. As a general guideline the HSN should never be more than 2 - 3 HOURS in from flush on the long needle GX two needle carbs.
Originally Posted by
bobbyc1127
Hey guys...OK guess I will say it...I am sold on GO motors. I went to Dallas yesterday to finish breaking in the GX-7 I got from my brother in a trade. I was running it in my Intech BR-5 with the Alpha 2090 pipe with the 7mm insert installed. I think the 7mm inset in the pipe was a mistake as it had WAY to much snap on the bottom end. I am going to change it out to the 8mm and see it is helps and maybe do some playing with my clutch springs as well. although I did have a hard time getting and keeping the motor at 205 this thing was making INSANE power. A good heavy trail of smoke and had no issues at all clearing all the jumps. I have a question though. Do these go motor do the typical "TUNE CHANGE" when the motor fully breaks in? cause I have yet to notice or see it on mine. Reason I am asking is I finished a FULL gallon on it yesterday and usually on the motors I have dealt with is when they do the CHANGE.
Trey is there someone I can contact about getting supplies for these motors that would be more dependable then A-Main at this point and time?
Glad your liking the GX-7R. They are a great buggy motor with insane top end.
Never really noticed a change in tune with the GO motors. You will see best performance and economy after the 1.5 gallon mark. Our imperial gallon (4.5 litres) is a little more than the US gallon (3.8 litres), so I would say around 1.75 gal in your case.
I always got the best performance with the GO EFRA 2072 pipe or the Dynamite 053 pipe on my 7 Ports. Combine one of these with the Ascendancy 4 shoe clutch running 4 x alloy shoes and 4 x Gold 1.0 springs and you will be very happy. The 7 Port loves that clutch set up.