Here's my procedure, documented in more detail with my current Turbo Optima build here. I didn't experience any pitting with any of the parts (with this build or my previous CYANide build) by doing this procedure.
http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=21530
1. Spray Easy-Off Heavy Duty oven cleaner on your anodized parts, let them soak for a while in a plastic pail or something. It only takes 5 or 10 minutes before you'll see the anodize coloring coming right off. Don't breathe the nasty smell and don't get Easy-Off on your skin, it will begin to itch. Rubber gloves and ventilation are important.
2. Rinse off the parts in hot water and re-spray any areas that still have areas of anodizing. I use a toothbrush to help get into the nooks & crannies.
3. Once all the anodizing is gone, you'll see either a dull silver or a charcoal grey finish...I think it depends on the quality of the aluminum. Now you get to work with the polishing.
4. Polishing aluminum is the same as for any other material; you wet-sand with progressively finer grits until you achieve your desired level of glossiness. It ain't easy and you won't score any points by taking short-cuts. Start with 400-grit and wet-sand, then repeat with 600, 800, 1000 & perhaps even 1500-grit. Some parts, I stop at 1000, some at 1500. I don't go any further (rubbing & polishing compound) if I'm planning to have the parts re-anodized, but if I want a nice glossy almost-chrome-like finish, I'll do step 5.
5. Rub down the parts with automotive rubbing compound; 3M or Turtle Wax or whatever. I prefer the paste that comes in little tubs. Repeat that procedure with automotive polishing compound. Lastly, I'll repeat with Nu-Finish Scratch Doctor, which gets the parts very nice and shiny. Again, step 5 isn't really necessary if you're planning on re-anodizing the parts.