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Old 12-26-2011 | 07:46 PM
  #1016  
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UN4RACING
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Originally Posted by Pointy71
Thanks for the tips.

I changed to 68+mm and then it was around -2 degrees. Did notice the wheels were not symmetrical (same angle of camber) even though the turnbuckles were EXACTLY the same length... Had to make small adjustments.

Now all OK and once on the track I will fine tune to my liking

But first have to wait for my electronics to come in. Ordered and shipped but not in yet...
On the table camber settings.
You can get a lot of different driving feel from playing with the camber. When the track is tacky I run -2/rear -1/front and I run that most of the time. I have ran -1/rear and 0/front but the traction has to be awesome. I always run less in the front to balance how the kit drives, it seems to give the rear more traction.
By playing with the front camber you can get more steering or even some push. More negative is more steering going in off power and less camber is more push going in off power and less gives great on power coming out with more control BTW.
-1 is a happy medium for most all round on the front. If you have a lot of short burst jumps -1 is popular all around, it gives decent forward bite. The more camber I use makes forward bite on power kinda loose though if the track is dry. Less on dry makes it more precise in a straight line, great for jumps but horrible in the turns. More has been good for me when its dry in the infield.
Long post but hope it helps. I've messed with set ups so much I'm drained. I just set it up for medium traction (-1/front -2/rear) and let it ride any more and just leave it. It works well for club racing. Each round is different at our track so changing and knowing what to set it at per round takes a lot of testing per track. Good luck. We most always have at least Medium traction.

Maybe others will chime in as well.
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