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Old 09-24-2017, 11:12 PM   #1
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Default Question About A Touring Car Build

Hello, I am still fairly new when it comes to rc cars, so I thought it would be best to ask this question before I purchase a motor/ speed control. I built a TLR 22-4 2.0 buggy awhile ago and have some extra electronics laying around (a servo, speed control, and a receiver). So I have been wanting to build an on road car. The only problem Iíve noticed is that on touring cars the motor is usually right next to the speed control, so there are very short wires connecting the two. My issue is, I have a Castle Mamba Max Pro ESC, which has long wires with female connectors for the motor wires to plug into. So my question is, would I be able to solder the wires leading from the ESC (if I cut the connectors off) directly onto motor tabs? I read that you shouldnít cut the motor wires, but I didnít read anything about the wires on speed controls.
Thank you.

Last edited by foxnthehound; 09-26-2017 at 05:06 PM.
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Old 09-25-2017, 09:46 AM   #2
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Usually TC ESCs and motors come only with tabs and no wires attached, so you can do it as you like it best. Many (most?) people solder the ESC wires directly to the motor's tabs. Others use small bullet plug connectors (3.0 or 3.5mm ... don't quite remember).
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:40 AM   #3
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You can cut those wires and solder them right onto the motor w/o issue. In fact, that's the preferred way to go regardless of vehicle.
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Old 09-26-2017, 05:00 PM   #4
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Ok, thanks. I have a couple more questions. What is a good size motor to get for a beginner touring car driver that wonít be racing? I read 17.5 T is used for stock racing, so I was just going to go with that. Then what size/tooth pinion gear would be best? Oh I forgot to add that the chassis will be an Xray T4 2017.
Thank you.

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Old 09-27-2017, 11:46 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by foxnthehound View Post
Ok, thanks. I have a couple more questions. What is a good size motor to get for a beginner touring car driver that wonít be racing? I read 17.5 T is used for stock racing, so I was just going to go with that. Then what size/tooth pinion gear would be best? Oh I forgot to add that the chassis will be an Xray T4 2017.
Thank you.
That's a lot of car for not racing..... that car is typically used on a prepared track that is blown off, then sprayed with a traction compound - VHT, soda water, etc.. Then people select very specific tires to suit the track conditions and temperatures.

And Stock Racing is not slow racing - with a 17.5 on an unprepared track surface on the wrong tires, the car will be undrivable at anything near full throttle.

What I'm trying to say is ..... are you sure you want to use a $800 - $1000 dollar car for playing around?
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxnthehound View Post
Ok, thanks. I have a couple more questions. What is a good size motor to get for a beginner touring car driver that wonít be racing? I read 17.5 T is used for stock racing, so I was just going to go with that. Then what size/tooth pinion gear would be best? Oh I forgot to add that the chassis will be an Xray T4 2017.
Thank you.
That's a wide open choice. Same with gearing. It's going to take some trial and error to find combination that works best. I've just finished summer of racing USGT(21.5) and F1(25.5). While not fast in open space, in the confined area of a track it's more then enuff to start.

I also have cars running 17.5, 13.5, 10.5, and 5.5 that I don't race.
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Old 09-27-2017, 01:42 PM   #7
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Ok thanks for the information. Yeah Iím sure, since I would rather have a quality racing chassis rather than buying a cheaper option and having to upgrade later if I decided to race it.
Thanks for the help, I will do some more research.
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Old 09-27-2017, 05:07 PM   #8
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Does anyone know what the pitch and tooth count of the spur gear thatís included in the T4 17í kit is? I tried looking, but canít seem to find it.
Thank you.
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:19 PM   #9
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It's right in the manual (page 10): 84T / 48P
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Old 09-27-2017, 06:53 PM   #10
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It's right in the manual (page 10): 84T / 48P
Oh ok sorry, thank you.
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Old 10-01-2017, 01:28 AM   #11
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Unless you have a preped surface, you are going to tear up that Xray. One rock at speed and that car is airborne.
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:02 AM   #12
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Unless you have a preped surface, you are going to tear up that Xray. One rock at speed and that car is airborne.
I've been running a older model T4(2014) on unprepared surfaces for years. Damaged spur or belt is worst that's happened. Yes there is always the chance.
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:44 PM   #13
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I have a question about the T4 build. Iím not there yet, but when you mount the front/rear shocks what is keeping the shocks on the screws? The instructions just show you set the pivot balls on the outside ends of the two screws, but what keeps them from falling off? Unless thereís something Iím not seeing.
Thank you.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foxnthehound View Post
I have a question about the T4 build. Iím not there yet, but when you mount the front/rear shocks what is keeping the shocks on the screws? The instructions just show you set the pivot balls on the outside ends of the two screws, but what keeps them from falling off? Unless thereís something Iím not seeing.
Thank you.
Yes, there actually is something you're not seeing : the pivot balls are threaded. That's what the screws actually... well... screw into.
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My Off-Road cars: Yokomo YZ-2 DTM | Yokomo YZ-2 DT | Yokomo B-Max4 III Factory>>>((?Yokomo YZ-4SF?)) | Kyosho Ultima SC6 | Tekno SCT410.3 | ((Xray XT2'18))
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:59 AM   #15
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Yes, there actually is something you're not seeing : the pivot balls are threaded. That's what the screws actually... well... screw into.
Oh ok, that makes sense. Thanks for explaining it.
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