Lalous

I have a little problem my local HS doesn't have any after run oil what can I substitute it for, some say WD 40 or Singer oil


Need help please
Thanks in advance

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

On our boats we always used FAI fuel (0% nitro airplane fuel) through the carb, then air tool oil the same way as after run oil.

racer1812

iTrader: (31)

the rc guy

WD-40 leaves a residue behind... i use sae 30 wt.. also Z-max..marvel Mystery is also good to use

Evoking1230

iTrader: (8)

I use Marvel Mystery oil.

You get a lot for a little.

buster8787

fuel has oil, after oil is just reaching into your wallet

Lalous

Thanks for the info will see what i have available near me

Bud

I use 50-50% marvel and atf. Either one by it's self would work just as well. In the air intake and out the plug hole. Some probably goes into the muffler but most comes out the tube I put in the plug hole. I put in a couple teaspoons. It's cheap.

the rc guy

not ... after run oil is a must .. get what you can find in peoples suggestions... buster ever hear of rust?..

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

Fuel does have oil in it, but the nitromethane attracts moisture, that's why we ran the 0% fuel thru the carb.

iliveonnitro

Anyone know if standard 2-stroke oil from walmart would do the same thing?

btw, i only used after-run oil when I wasn't going to run the engine in the next 2-3+ weeks. If your LHS is out, just make sure you run the car once every week or two and you won't have to worry about anything.

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

For what it's worth, my 1/8th scale buggy sat in non-climate-controlled storage for about 6 years and fired right up the other day. All thanks to FAI and air tool oil.

snuvet75

iTrader: (16)

Come on guys. Whatever after run oil you get, it's dirt cheap. Use it after every use. It only takes a few drops and even a small bottle of RC specific after run oil lasts for a long time. You definitely don't need to pour a large amount to the point you'd have to buy a new bottle every month. I use a small bottle of exceed oil (I think it's 1 oz) and it lasts for more than a year. A drop from the bottle is 1/15 cc. 1 oz is 32cc. If you put 5 drops after each race, it's 5/15cc= 0.33cc. It means 1oz bottle lasts for about 100 races. Even very expensive after run oil like $20(I don't even think it exists though) divided by 365 days= 5 cents a day. I'm sure you can afford that when you guys buy $3-500 dollar engine. Sorry I'm direct but it's true, no?

Ovaloldtimer

iTrader: (2)

When nitro evaporates it leaves an acidic white dust, this is why after run oil is important if the car is going to sit.
A few drops of Mystery oil is all that's needed.

RCTecher12

iTrader: (1)

The proper way to prep an engine for storage and the best way to truly oil it to actually protect it.

Run engine out of fuel with fuel disconnected from carb. Try to restart engine several times until it doesn't fire. Leave piston at BDC for a couple hours. Take your favorite oil and put a healthy squirt down the glow plug hole and a few drops down the carb. The idea here is to flood the internals with oil AFTER the fuel residue evaporates. If you oil it too soon, the oil will trap the corrosives underneath it. If you use fuel with a good dose of castor in it, you don't need to do any afterrun oiling to protect from rust or anything for a measureable amount of time.

My favored oils:
- Dexron transmission fluid mixed 10:1 with Seafoam
- Sewing machine oil (same thing as 3-in-one oil basically)
- air tool oil (provided it has corrosion inhibitors)

I prefer the ATF/Seafoam mix because it helps keep varnish and carbon minimal when using a heavily castor based fuel.

A few drops of oil doesn't do crap FYI. You need to almost need to fill it half full, swish around, and dump out.