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Old 08-12-2017, 07:52 AM   #16
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I have a little problem my local HS doesn't have any after run oil what can I substitute it for, some say WD 40 or Singer oil


Need help please
Thanks in advance
WD40 has no place on RC, this is a horrible "lube" its a water displacer. As such it destroys rubber products, like o-rings, seals etc. It will also soften certain plastics depending on composition.

I know that they now have a massive WD40 line, but none are developed for RC. Stick with what has been tried and true in RC.
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Old 08-12-2017, 07:59 AM   #17
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WD40 won't affect most o-rings and stuff.. People have soaked o-rings in the stuff for days without problem. Moreover, guys have used petroleum oils for afterrun for decades without any problems. The problem with WD40 is it evaporates leaving little to nothing behind. Look up the MSDS for WD40 and research the ingredients.

I guarantee the "after run oil" you buy from the Hobby shop is not miscible in methanol, which is another myth people spread. "You must use oil miscible (will mix with) in methanol). BS.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:15 AM   #18
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A few drops of oil doesn't do crap FYI. You need to almost need to fill it half full, swish around, and dump out.
Is it FYI or IMHO? 5-7 drops has been serving me well and when I inspect the engine, even with that amount, there's plenty of oil moving around inside the engine. Enlighten me on why you need that much oil.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:27 AM   #19
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WD40 won't affect most o-rings and stuff.. People have soaked o-rings in the stuff for days without problem. Moreover, guys have used petroleum oils for afterrun for decades without any problems. The problem with WD40 is it evaporates leaving little to nothing behind. Look up the MSDS for WD40 and research the ingredients.

I guarantee the "after run oil" you buy from the Hobby shop is not miscible in methanol, which is another myth people spread. "You must use oil miscible (will mix with) in methanol). BS.
Yes it does, I am an engineer by trade, and we have tested this... So take it for what its worth. Keep using WD40 on rubber products, and we will see how the rubber goods fair for a while.

Do this, go spray down one of your RC Tires, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, get a paper towel and wipe it down... wonder what that black stuff on that towel is!!!

As for the MSDS, that will only list what they have paid to have compatibility tests done on...

Further more, which is why in Hydraulic Piston Accumulators we usa Buna seals, same for high pressure Hydraulic Rams, Pistons etc. in the Oil Field. In case some body decides to service such an item and clean it with WD40... The seals will last...

If you want a WD40 type product you use LPS. The reason ATF is a good after run, is because its engineered for Automatuc transmissions, which contain - o-rings, and will not deteriorate them.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:11 AM   #20
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Is it FYI or IMHO? 5-7 drops has been serving me well and when I inspect the engine, even with that amount, there's plenty of oil moving around inside the engine. Enlighten me on why you need that much oil.
5-7 drops will get around the piston, but won't get to the wristpin or the bearings which is really the most important parts to get oiled. Why? So if the oil residue from the fuel congeals, the gudgeon pin doesn't get frozen up in the piston (this is bad if this happens) and bearings don't skid.

If you're only storing your engine for a short time - say less than a few months, you won't know any different. Store an engine for a year or two and you'll see the difference.
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Old 08-12-2017, 11:18 AM   #21
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Yes it does, I am an engineer by trade, and we have tested this... So take it for what its worth. Keep using WD40 on rubber products, and we will see how the rubber goods fair for a while.

Do this, go spray down one of your RC Tires, let it sit for 10-15 minutes, get a paper towel and wipe it down... wonder what that black stuff on that towel is!!!

As for the MSDS, that will only list what they have paid to have compatibility tests done on...

Further more, which is why in Hydraulic Piston Accumulators we usa Buna seals, same for high pressure Hydraulic Rams, Pistons etc. in the Oil Field. In case some body decides to service such an item and clean it with WD40... The seals will last...

If you want a WD40 type product you use LPS. The reason ATF is a good after run, is because its engineered for Automatuc transmissions, which contain - o-rings, and will not deteriorate them.
So you took my post out of context. If you use WD40 in a model engine, it's not going to affect the silicone parts in the engine because it won't likely reach those parts that would be detrimental to its operation.

I would not use WD40 for ANY reason on an RC model regardless, but the risky parts are silicone parts and as mentioned the tires. RC tires are not made from the same kind of substances that automotive tires are which would not be affected as much by petroleum solvents as RC tires would as an example.

Petroleum products will swell silicone parts. Black rubber o-rings won't be bothered with it.

Mineral ATF as well as synthetic ATF are petroleum based. They will hard silicone parts the same with the WD40 probably quicker due to its high solvent content. Yes - automatic transmissions have a few rubber parts inside - o-rings and such. But they are black rubber and not silicone. Black rubber is suitable for petroleum.
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Old 08-12-2017, 12:36 PM   #22
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5-7 drops will get around the piston, but won't get to the wristpin or the bearings which is really the most important parts to get oiled. Why? So if the oil residue from the fuel congeals, the gudgeon pin doesn't get frozen up in the piston (this is bad if this happens) and bearings don't skid.

If you're only storing your engine for a short time - say less than a few months, you won't know any different. Store an engine for a year or two and you'll see the difference.
But I just stored my engine for 2 years before I took it out again a few months ago and my Virtus was as oily as any* can get!
I dropped the oil through the plug hole only, put glow plug back in and get flywheel running on the starter box for a few seconds. That gets the oil distributed every corner of engine just fine. It was not just the piston and conrod that were wet with oil but pins and bearings were just as wet.
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Old 08-12-2017, 01:31 PM   #23
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Pardon my skepticism that 5-7 drops coats the entire inside of the engine.
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Old 08-12-2017, 10:08 PM   #24
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Pardon my skepticism that 5-7 drops coats the entire inside of the engine.
I just knew you would come like that lol. Whatever works for you dude
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Old 08-13-2017, 11:55 AM   #25
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I just knew you would come like that lol. Whatever works for you dude
Theres always more than one way to skin a cat. If what you do works for you, then by all means keep doing it. To me, there is no harm in overdoing what I see as maintenance. But again - there's more than one way to skin a cat.

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Old 08-13-2017, 03:22 PM   #26
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Theres always more than one way to skin a cat. If what you do works for you, then by all means keep doing it. To me, there is no harm in overdoing what I see as maintenance. But again - there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Yeah exactly. BTW you're referring to my method in relation to skinning a cat right? Cuz I never said you were wrong but you pretty much said my method doesn't work. I just wanted you to explain why you put so much and you don't need to be sarcastic when you can't even prove why my method doesn't work.
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Old 08-16-2017, 08:17 AM   #27
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Like someone said earlier, use fuel with good castor oil and you won't have to worry about after run oil. All of my engines have never seen after run oil unless it's been on the rare occasion that I know the motor isn't going to be used for long period of time (6 months +)
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Old 08-16-2017, 05:03 PM   #28
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Like someone said earlier, use fuel with good castor oil and you won't have to worry about after run oil. All of my engines have never seen after run oil unless it's been on the rare occasion that I know the motor isn't going to be used for long period of time (6 months +)
What is the good amount of castor you would say? Do actual cars take something similar if the car is not to be run for a while? Or they don't because of castor oil the gas has? Does the gas have any anyway? Maybe it's not a fair comparison but I just got to wonder.
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Old 08-16-2017, 05:39 PM   #29
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It's pretty tough to compare bean oil to mineral Dino oil. Not in the same galaxy as far as chemistry goes.

Dino/mineral oil doesn't congeal and gel up like plant based oils do.

FWIW - I run a 60/40 blend of castor/synthetic currently. I've been experimenting with different oil blends to find the mix that my engines favor the best. My engines do not gum up from non-use for about a year if no after run oil is used.
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Old 08-23-2017, 09:41 PM   #30
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I wouldn't be just trusting the castor oil in your fuel... Maybe it is because it is so humid in Queensland during our summer but in the past i have still has rusty bearings.

Castor oil is a bit sticky and does not attract moisture, it will create a perfect airtight seal on the metal parts. Castor has a negative thing that it will dry out. It can block the needles and lock the piston if it is not used for a long time. A good afterrun is made of an oil that will not dry out.

Both main ingredient in our fuel NitroMethane and methanol are hydroscopic and attract moisture causing rust.
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