MODerate OCD

Hi,
I've got a couple of RC kits waiting for motors and ESCs that need soldering. I have a TK-950. I have soldered (a long time ago) circuit boards, and I understand the basics from the various threads and videos I've seen. What I don't see is any discussion of the use of heatsinks to protect the equipment, or the possibility of overheating the equipment.

This lack of discussion makes me think that the motors and ESCs are okay, as long as you don't go off and leave the iron sitting on them. With circuit boards I had to be real careful about keeping the duration of the heat to a minimum--using heatsinks when possible. I'm assuming it is not an issue here because the motor and ESC posts are so much larger than what you see in circuit boards?

Any comments or advice?

TIA.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

You do need to get the solder joint done fairly quickly on motors and ESC's but it isn't as sensitive as the circuit boards you are familiar with. I run my iron with the temp pretty high so I can get the solder to flow the joint fast. I do use a heat sink when I am soldering Dean's plugs. Basically I just clamp a hemostat to the opposite end of the pole I am soldering. If I am soldering the female I plug a male into it and clamp the hemostat on the male.

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

Just turn the iron as high as it will go so you're getting the joint done as quick as possible. The only time I've fried a speed control was when I foolishly tried to solder the wires through the holes and got the thing too hot.

MODerate OCD

Thanks for the replies. The main thing I'm soldering is male Deans plugs to the ESC leads. I'll definitely clamp the plugs.

I do have one Tekin ESC with nice big posts to clamp to, and one motor, where I may be able to clamp to the posts on the vertical surface entering the can--under the horizontal part. I'll see.

In any case, I'll use a heatsink when I can, turn up the iron temp, and not linger any longer than needed.

I'm putting together some 1/10th 4WD e buggies for my son and I to take out to the track--for the first time. Been wanting to do it for a while, as we are currently monster truck bashers. I also picked up a TLR SCTE 2.0 for a really good price. I'll be putting it together eventually. I like the looks of those SCTs.

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

I think you'd be much better off using a wider chisel tip rather than cranking up the heat. Leaded solder shouldn't need more than 700f and most of the solder stations go beyond 850f, so if you just crank it to the max, bad things can still happen. If it's not heating up quick enough, it's either because the iron can't hold heat or the tip you're using is too small for the job.

anthonyscardina

iTrader: (12)

Not trying to step on your toes EbbTide, everyone likes to do things differently, just some things to keep in mind...

Everything new is ROHS compliant and has lead free solder as a result, which melts at a higher temperature. Remove any factory solder with a vacuum or copper braid (with flux) if you intend to use regular lead solder.

My station (team checkpoint/hakko 936) goes to about 850 and I use the widest tip available. I'm sure I could get away with a lower temperature since I only use lead solder, I've just never seen the need to.

For what it's worth, the owner of i-lap was the one who taught me the "hotter is better" soldering technique. I was struggling with some lower heat settings on a micro speed control rx harness and he came in and blew my mind with his skill. He said he even hand soldered his transponder boards when he first started, and they're about the size of a postage stamp!

EbbTide

iTrader: (39)

No worries, just relaying my experience. I suppose I was going on the assumption the average hobbyist would wick away the cheap factory solder and apply some proper leaded solder

Either way though your technique still scares me lol But I'm glad you haven't fried anything yet so it's definitely working for you. I used to be in the school of hotter is better (my iron went up to 900f and I used to keep it there religiously) until I read the solder bible in the Radio and Electronics section. Until I have a negative result using that method, I will keep on recommending that way over all else.

MODerate OCD

I plan to use some Trakpower silver (3%) solder. My previous soldering involved audio equipment, so I got used to the pain of using it. I will snip any pre-tinned wire ends, but I do have some braid, in case I need it.

iliveonnitro

Hottest setting isn't always best. Overheating the part becomes a real possibility at the max setting. Using a flux is a better idea. Couldn't hurt to scuff up the posts a little bit before tinning to make the solder stick better.

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

Pre tin everything!
And hot means more heat in your tip but also means you need to be more careful in cooking your electronics.
63/37 solder is your key because of the eutectic nature of the solder - it solidifies immediately after going below its melting point rather than congeals like 60/40 does.

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

With deans, I like to have a spare plug plugged into the one I am soldering to.

Deans can distort fairly easily when overheated & no longer fit. Especially the male.

Debonair

I switched to XT60's and distorted a few of them in the process. This would have been a simple way to avoid it. Good tip!

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

It would, but in some spec classes we have to run deans. I do wish the would change to XT60's

WagwanBumba

iTrader: (1)

A little surprised the spec even goes down to the type of connector you have to use!

TOM MAR

iTrader: (3)

LOL Oval, nuff said.