soldering ESC wires (1/8th scale)
#1
soldering ESC wires (1/8th scale)
Hey all,
I am new to electrics and i am converting my MP777 to electric and I purchased the HobbyWing XR8 SCT ESC. The posts on the ESC stick straight up and have kind of a half moon shaped divot on the tops. I looked at some pics and it looks like the wires get soldered so they are sticking straight up instead of a right angle with the posts, is that correct?
Also, should I put a little shrink wrap around the posts/solder joint after soldering?
thanks!
I am new to electrics and i am converting my MP777 to electric and I purchased the HobbyWing XR8 SCT ESC. The posts on the ESC stick straight up and have kind of a half moon shaped divot on the tops. I looked at some pics and it looks like the wires get soldered so they are sticking straight up instead of a right angle with the posts, is that correct?
Also, should I put a little shrink wrap around the posts/solder joint after soldering?
thanks!
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Hey all,
I am new to electrics and i am converting my MP777 to electric and I purchased the HobbyWing XR8 SCT ESC. The posts on the ESC stick straight up and have kind of a half moon shaped divot on the tops. I looked at some pics and it looks like the wires get soldered so they are sticking straight up instead of a right angle with the posts, is that correct?
Also, should I put a little shrink wrap around the posts/solder joint after soldering?
thanks!
I am new to electrics and i am converting my MP777 to electric and I purchased the HobbyWing XR8 SCT ESC. The posts on the ESC stick straight up and have kind of a half moon shaped divot on the tops. I looked at some pics and it looks like the wires get soldered so they are sticking straight up instead of a right angle with the posts, is that correct?
Also, should I put a little shrink wrap around the posts/solder joint after soldering?
thanks!
#4
I would strongly suggest watching some videos on soldering. And to much heat/heating what you are soldering for to long of a time is bad.
#5
use a damp sponge very little water to cool esc posts fast .. make a fast good solder joint..best to practice on something similar.. many hardware store sell brass rods.. fast and quick. cool.asap.up 90 or 180 no matter.
#6
Tech Apprentice
Watch youtube, it's pretty simple. Get the iron nice and hot, dab solder on it, flux and tin both the wires and the ESC posts, let everything cool for a few seconds. Flux both parts again, and join them. It won't matter the direction (straight up or horizontal). Heat shrink makes things look nice and acts as a nice backup in case something goes wrong, but it's not necessary. Just make sure to keep the heat shrink far enough back so it doesn't accidentally shrink before you are ready!
#7
thanks all! My first soldering job was on my b5M last year which went really well after watching a million youtube vids (I credit the nice Hakko I bought for making it so easy). I didn't have to solder the ESC last time though so wanted to check tips for that - looks like I will solder the wires going straight up and shrink wrap them at the joint.
#8
So I tried to solder the posts and failed last night. It felt like an eternity trying to heat the post up and get the solder to flow onto it so I was worried about leaving the heat on and figured I was doing something wrong. I think it was due to the shape of the posts that was throwing me off.
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
#9
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
So I tried to solder the posts and failed last night. It felt like an eternity trying to heat the post up and get the solder to flow onto it so I was worried about leaving the heat on and figured I was doing something wrong. I think it was due to the shape of the posts that was throwing me off.
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
What you should do is read this thread...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ef-lesson.html
... I know it's a lot to filter through but it'll help you understand what you're doing wrong and how to fix it
As for the way you want to solder the wires, it's definitely not the most straightforward way of doing it considering the solder post design. But it is doable. What I might do is start by soldering the wire horizontally onto the posts and while the iron is still heating the wire/solder, try bending the wire upwards at a right angle. It should move pretty easy while it's hot. Then just keep the wire in place until the joint cools. Should end up with a solid joint and you can probably still get some shrink wrap around it
#10
not enough heat at iron tip..to small of tip or iron will not supply enough heat .. i use a ungar 80 watt iron with chisel tip for 90% of my work.. small stuff like rx wire ill use a smaller iron 40 watt led wellar for that but that has enough heat to do larger work also. clean tip good fux.. good solder is all and a damp sponge to draw heat away when finished and clean tip.a good solder joint will not be grey bumpy..it will be smooth and shinny.
#11
So I tried to solder the posts and failed last night. It felt like an eternity trying to heat the post up and get the solder to flow onto it so I was worried about leaving the heat on and figured I was doing something wrong. I think it was due to the shape of the posts that was throwing me off.
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
Should I tin the tip of the iron and put it inside the post to heat it up, then put solder on sides of iron? I was tinning the tip and pushing to the side of the post and it didn't seem to be working fast at all and I got a horrible tinning result that took forever. Also, when I push the wire straight down and try to heat from the side, it was barely melting. Should I tin the top and bottom the the iron tip (it's the standard small-ish flat head tip that came with the Hakko 888D iron) and heat up the post and tinned wire at same time then remove tip quickly and push the wire down? I've watched some videos and got my motor tabs and XT90 connectors soldered nicely but the ESC was really frustrating me. It seemed like I would have an easier time with the wire coming out sideways but I want that nice shrinkwrapped look!
#12
Tech Apprentice
Definitely need more heat. What iron do you have? What is the wattage?
You can get by with a pencil tip if it's hot enough. A flat tip (like a flathead screwdriver) will definitely make it easier, though.
You can get by with a pencil tip if it's hot enough. A flat tip (like a flathead screwdriver) will definitely make it easier, though.
#13
Tech Rookie
Simply tin all leads with solder, solder one out of each three together. Then hold the other two together to make sure they're spinning the right direction. Just press them between thumb and forefinger. If they do not swap the two unsoldered leads around and hey presto, they spin the right way. Now solder each pair together.
If you struggle to hold them between your thumb and forefinger then just solder another pair together. Hold the pair together, if they spin the right way, unsolder, swap about and they'll work.
Just have a go.
If you worry about getting your fingers hot, find some self-grip tweezers for a third-hand tool. Soldering is easy, just take your time.
If you struggle to hold them between your thumb and forefinger then just solder another pair together. Hold the pair together, if they spin the right way, unsolder, swap about and they'll work.
Just have a go.
If you worry about getting your fingers hot, find some self-grip tweezers for a third-hand tool. Soldering is easy, just take your time.
#14
Tech Rookie
Simply tin all leads with solder, solder one out of each three together. Then hold the other two together to make sure they're spinning the right direction. Just press them between thumb and forefinger. If they do not swap the two unsoldered leads around and hey presto, they spin the right way. Now solder each pair together.
If you struggle to hold them between your thumb and forefinger then just solder another pair together. Hold the pair together, if they spin the right way, unsolder, swap about and they'll work.
Just have a go.
If you worry about getting your fingers hot, find some self-grip tweezers for a third-hand tool. Soldering is easy, just take your time.
If you struggle to hold them between your thumb and forefinger then just solder another pair together. Hold the pair together, if they spin the right way, unsolder, swap about and they'll work.
Just have a go.
If you worry about getting your fingers hot, find some self-grip tweezers for a third-hand tool. Soldering is easy, just take your time.